Life On The Dancefloor With Laure Togola, What's Happening In Town & Where To Eat
Lunch for under 30 euros, Pop Art icons on show, a new venue on the outskirts of Paris, the Montmartre you don't know and a new fanzine to delve into.
Back at it - Some of you might have noticed that you didn’t receive last month’s newsletter. So much for rigour on my part, I know… I was running around the island of Mauritius, where my father’s from and where I partly grew up, to write the new Lonely Planet guidebook - fun but exhausting! Now I’m back and excited to get this month’s newsletter out to you. We’re experimenting with a different format - like it? Don’t like it? Let me know! - and it’s packed with tons of things to do and places to eat. I also sat down with Laure Togola, Rap and Hip Hop Philharmonie producer, who talks about life on and off the dance floor. You won’t regret taking time away from your favourite Netflix series...
If You Do Just 3 Things…
Two Pop Art legends’ show, records galore and the zeppelin warehouse that’s now showing art in a Paris suburb
Enter the hazy worlds of two of the world’s most notable artists from 80s NYC. Andy Warhol and Jean-Michel Basquiat need no introduction of course, but this blockbuster exhibition showing the 160 of works they produced together that have rarely been seen in their totality, acts as a fervent reminder of their brazen attitudes and dauntless creative spirits, that marked minds the world over (5th April - 28th August). So, because I wasn’t around, I missed the opening of this incredible new space Hangar Y in Meudon (say, where?! I can almost hear Parisians shriek). I know. Meudon - that’s on the southwestern outskirts of Paris. Open since March, this old zeppelin storage building from 1879 is perfect for exhibitions like the pieces now on show by 20 of the art world’s biggest names (think Christian Boltanski, Tony Cragg and Shilpa Gupta). It’s also getting a restaurant by the trendy Perchoir clan so if you’re new-spot chaser, get booking. This month also marks one of my favourite events of the year: Disquaire Day (records store day), on 22nd April, when the city’s record shops, from Dizonord to Patate Records, come alive with events all day and night, and when a load of collectors come to the city unpack their treasure troves at various pop-ups.
Want more? Scroll down for 18 other things on my to-do list this April.
On The Menu
Because lunchtime’s the new dinner: restaurants for under 30 euros
Calling all the people embracing the remote-work movement and the re-emerging longer-lunch date that goes with it. Check out the lunch menus at fantastic spots like the light-filled Aléa on the outskirts of Montmartre where you can dig into succulent vegetables, fish or pork fillet, polished off with cheese or chocolate mousse for 24 euros. Not too far away near Pigalle, pop into the 20s-inspired dining room of the Hotel Rochechouart for the extra-mean cordon bleu (French schnitzel) which comes in at 22 euros with a starter or main - particularly good for hangovers, apparently (just saying). Another favourite further along the boulevard near Gare du Nord is the Café des Deux Gares where a designer I love, Luke Edward Hall, ripped everything out and created an atmospheric bistro that looks like it’s always been there. Paul Bocuse-trained chef Jonathan Schweizer does a brilliant job at feeding diners updated French staples with lots of fresh veggies for under 30 euros for three courses. I’m gathering all my scribbled notes together in this Paris lunchtime eats for under 30 euros map if you want more ideas worth your buck.
Big Picture
Beyond the Club: Women’s rights on the dance floor with music events producer Laure Togola
Laure was one of the people who put together the Philharmonie’s big-hit Hip-Hop 360 exhibition that ran last year and she was behind the music collective B93’s multidisciplinary, multicultural Prequel event at Le Sample on the outskirts of Paris. Most recently, she joined fellow activist and DJ Sarah Gamrani to develop the creative laboratory Au-Delà du Club, a springboard for questions around women and the clubbing scene, with a just-launched fanzine Flashes.
Hot Hoods
Where Elvis would probably have stopped for a pint, hidden streets and vintage perfume
Montmartre is one of the most overrun neighbourhoods of Paris, it’s true. But it’s still a favourite with a real local crowd. I was lucky enough to live here for a little while, which is when I discovered how authentic a vibe it really has once you leave the throngs of tourists behind. Montmartre is two parallel worlds. One of crammed brasseries serving over-priced, mediocre food, and another of neon-lit bars and restaurants I’m going to share with you here… I’ve put these on my Montmartre map to make it easy for you if you’re venturing over.
Where To Stay
A room on the river
In terms of unusual experiences, the floating hotel OFF Seine is one to add to your list. Docked on the banks of the River Seine between the chic 5th arrondissement and the happening 11th, which brims with bars and restaurants, it’s a great base for getting a glimpse at both left and right banks. Rooms are super cosy with views of the water and rates start at under 200 euros, which is at the lower end of the scale for Paris. In summer, there’s a fun holiday vibe around the small pool on deck, where you can have lunch or dinner. You can also book a trip with Green River, which takes you on a private cruise of the river alone or with friends, and is one of the best ways of seeing all the city’s incredible monuments, from the Eiffel Tower to the golden bridge of Alexander III and the Grand Palais.
On our radar this month
18 things to do in April
Merci, gracias, danke, thank you for opening this first instalment of What’s Up, Paris? and taking the time to delve in with me! It’s been a pleasure bringing you dispatches from the frontline. Hope you liked it! If you did, or if you didn’t, or anything in between, let me know! It’s been a pleasure bringing you dispatches from the frontline. Hope you liked it! If you did, or if you didn’t, or anything in between, let me know!
You can also get in touch with general enquiries or questions about collaborations and partnerships: whatsuppariscontact@gmail.com.
See you again next month! Look out for the next instalment coming to you in the first week of May!