As you were!
Don't move, just pop on the bedside lamp or draw back the curtains if it's late enough for the sun to be up, and reach over for your weekend edit of November's Breakfast Scrolls.
Welcome to the mid-month morning edit of What’s Up, Paris? Thank you for being here!
Breakfast Reads 🥞
Here’s a little of what’s been going on lately in Paris.
For decades, chef Iñaki Aizpitarte’s Le Chateaubriand has been one of the most influential restaurants in Paris. Now he’s left the city for the simpler life | Air Mail
What the ultra-rich came to buy at last month’s Art Basel, which featured works at price levels never seen before | The New York Times
“Can I fall back in love with fine dining?” The FT’s critic is on a mission, and his first stop is Le Grand Véfour in Paris | Financial Times
Notre-Dame Cathedral’s grounds are going to get €55 million of trees | France 24
How hooded thieves stole artefacts from a museum in Paris with baseball bats in broad daylight | Le Monde English
Just-released, this nifty book Le Guide des Grands Parisiens (French only) rounds up 300 offbeat spots to explore on the city outskirts like the ‘Little Riviera’, which I’ll be delving into right after I’ve pressed send on this weekend edit ;)
Morning Mingle ☕
As the year winds down, it’s a time for reflection and renewal - celebrating what’s been and setting intentions for what’s next. Anne Stark Ditmeyer’s playbook for possibility OVERRIDE!, feels like the perfect guide for “letting the magic in”. ✨
I first met Anne during the pandemic, in a basement by the Seine. It wasn’t as clandestine as it sounds - we were rolling out dough and baking croissants at La Cuisine cooking school. Fast forward four years, and I’m catching up with the Virginia native who’s lived in Paris for two decades, over coffee at Main Noire in the 18th arrondissement.
Anne has gone from a traveler and designer who gives tours to a creative coach, workshop facilitator, and self-published author of OVERRIDE! What if there was another way? inviting in a specific form of creativity: spontaneity. The guide challenges readers to explore societal norms, find their true desires and chart their own paths. Known for her inventive workshops (ever heard of banana mapping?), Anne’s approach is grounded in compassion and practicality - less guru, more guide.
As we spoke, I found myself inspired by her ability to really connect and tangible tools. As we sipped on chai lattes, we delved into her journey.
---
What does the phrase “You love France, but you really love a challenge” mean to you?
A friend told me that once and it’s spot-on. Living in France isn’t always easy - bureaucracy alone is a masterclass in patience and persistence. But those challenges have pushed me to think creatively, adapt, and find solutions in ways I wouldn’t have otherwise.
Would you go as far to say that French bureaucracy shaped your creativity?
It’s all about constraints. The rules and red tape force you to approach problems from new angles. Bureaucracy, as frustrating as it can be, has been one of my greatest teachers in innovation and resilience.
How does OVERRIDE! reflect your journey?
The book is about breaking free from norms and finding your own way, which mirrors my experience living in France and building my career. It’s a playful, practical guide to help people navigate their own challenges and embrace possibility. OVERRIDE! is the result of years of exploration - working with others, navigating my own journey, and asking, “What if there’s another way?” It’s a book meant to fit in your pocket and your life, helping you reconnect with what truly matters to you.
Seems that “banana mapping” has become quite your trademark. Can you tell me a bit more?
[Laughs] I owe this exercise to Phil Francis who enrolled in one of my workshops. It helps to make creative problem-solving approachable. Without giving too much away, it involves using unconventional tools—like bananas—to think differently and unlock new ideas. I love that maps connect people to a place too. My dad drew maps, you map a path, I’m a traveller… it’s all linked.
Can you share an example of a challenge that inspired creativity?
During lockdown, I launched “Write Your Own Rules” and “Mapping Your Path” workshops. They were born out of necessity when everything felt uncertain. Those experiences taught me - and others - that creativity thrives when you’re forced to reimagine what’s possible.
How does your coaching process differ from traditional methods?
I don’t see myself as a guru or someone with all the answers. I’m more of a creative connector. My goal is to help people tap into their own intuition and creativity through personalized, hands-on approaches. It’s about making ideas tangible.
What advice do you have for navigating challenges creatively?
Embrace the constraints! They’re not obstacles; they’re opportunities to think differently. And surround yourself with people who inspire you—you never know what new perspective they’ll bring.
What’s next for you?
More workshops, more travel, and hopefully inspiring more people to think differently! I’m excited to see how OVERRIDE! evolves as people bring it into their lives. I like to say that the journey is messy, but it’s also where the magic happens!
Stay up to date with Anne’s next workshops, or find out more about her daily life in Paris and her work on Instagram, as well as in a newly-launched Substack. If you so wish, you can also pick up a copy of OVERRIDE! here.
The Weekender: Casamaas 🍃
Less than an hour’s drive outside Paris, is this quiet understated paradise where city dwellers, like myself, can catch their breath.
There’s something exhilarating about packing light, tossing a bag in the car, and leaving Paris behind for the promise of the woods. That’s exactly what I found at Casamaas, a secluded retreat of renovated houses in the Rambouillet Forest.
With just a dozen casas and suites - some inside converted horse stables - it feels more like borrowing a country home than renting a place for the weekend.
When we arrive, the keys and a stocked fridge of local cheeses, hams, and salads are waiting. Instead of fanfare, we get a WhatsApp message with tips for the best trails and nearby restaurants, plus dreamy images of sunsets and misty mornings that get us excited to explore.
Our casa, tucked along a quiet lane leading straight to the woods, feels like a lone cabin in the woods. Mornings start with hikes; afternoons are spent curled up by the windows, watching clouds drift across the big skies. Breakfast is a short walk away at the main barn, where we share a table piled with fresh baguettes, croissants, and homemade jams, with a handful of the other guests, all while gazing out at red poppies swaying in the breeze through floor-to-ceiling windows.
What stays with me is the intimacy of the place - its creamy, earthy interiors and natural textures a gentle call to rest the moment I walked in - and of course, those big forest views. casamaas.fr
Top Tables: Where To Tuck Into Brunch🚶🏽♀️
Time to get up, get moving and head for some of the city’s best brunches.
Brunch at L’Entente, Le British Brasserie (Paris 2nd) is a total win if you’re craving a proper British fry-up but still want a chic vibe. Think homemade dishes made with French produce, comfy blue banquettes, and none of that awkward elbow-bumping at tiny tables. It’s on from 9 AM to 4 PM, so you can roll in whenever (but do book) - and if it’s Sunday, stick around for their epic Sunday roast.
Café Shin (Paris 10th) might not serve a traditional brunch, but its creative Korean-inspired street food and sleek vibes make it a laid-back spot to start your day. From velvety Goguma lattes to doenjang kimbaps, packed with fresh vegetables and/or meat or fish, as well as croffles topped with matcha ice cream, it’s all about healthy food and unique flavours.
You can’t really talk about brunch without mentioning Holybelly (Paris 10th), the Paris brunch OG. It’s where craft coffee and hearty pancakes come together in the perfect mix of Melbourne-inspired ambience. Whether you’re sipping on their rich Mystic Mornings blend or digging into a sweet or savory pancake stack, it’s a spot that always delivers.
Soya (Paris 11th) is the place to be for brunch if you're craving 100% plant-based goodness. From cheesecake to curry masala, you can eat as much as you want from their buffet for a whole two hours, all served up in a spot that looks like it used to be an artist’s atelier - it’s not hard to see why they've been rocking the vegan scene since 2007.
B.O.U.L.O.M (Paris 18th) is Top Chef contestant Julien Duboué’s digs, where he’s serving up everything from fresh oysters and seafood to risottos and roast meats. It’s a laid-back spot with a focus on zero waste—so don’t leave leftovers, or you’ll get charged for it. There’s also great wine to wash the food down with.
Until next time… leaving you with Dingue, French rapper MC Solaar’s latest hit, to get you up and going 🎶 Bon week-end!