Carrie Solomon: Reinventing The Rules In The Kitchen
I met the American chef who's getting Parisians out of bed for breakfast, hot on the heels of her residency at Aube café in Paris 11.
When Carrie left the lakes and forests of Michigan behind to be an au pair in Paris, she never imagined she’d be writing recipes for international magazines or books, let alone heading up her own restaurant. Today, she’s whipping up some of the best brunch around and serving it to locals used to downing an espresso for breakfast. Here’s a little bit about her.
Tell us a little bit about you. I'm from Northern Michigan, not all that far from the Canadian border. I grew up in a small town on Lake Michigan. If you've ever read any Jim Harrison, it's pretty much on point for describing the rural landscapes of lakes and forest.
What brought you to Paris? I moved to Paris on a whim in 2002 after finishing my studies in political science. I had only planned to stay for a year... but quality of life (as well as the bread and cheese) won me over. I worked as an au pair for the first couple years and when the family I was living with discovered I liked to cook, I ended up cooking quite often for them as well.
And how did that lead you to become a chef? I'm not completely sure when I became a chef! I have been working in restaurants since I was 14, summer and weekend jobs and to help pay for my studies. But I liked it so much, and quickly realised that my side hustle was actually my passion. I worked for a long time in culinary creation, styling recipes and creating images for magazines and cookbooks - at first for other chefs and then over time I began creating and writing my own recipes.
Was there a turning point for you? I'd say the turning point was when I was asked to create biweekly recipes for Elle magazine. I wrote recipes for the weekly magazine for almost three years. It was at this point when I gained more confidence in my ideas. It also challenged me to really think about my audience, what kind of utensils they may or may not have in their kitchens, and whether or not they had access to the same products as I did living in central Paris.
You’ve opened the wonderful Aube café in the 11th. Tell us a little bit more. I'm doing a long term residence at Aube, a daytime, "everyday of the week is brunch" spot in Paris 11. It's pretty vegetable- and egg-focused (hence the brunch aspect) without being 100% vegetarian. I'd say the cuisine has a seasonal Mediterranean edge, but I know my American influence is there too. There are whole grain and almond flour pancakes, although I don't use the traditional maple syrup - while delicious, it's not local and shipping it from North America isn't ecologically responsible. So instead I make seasonal syrups, right now I have fig leaf syrup. Earlier this summer I had elderflower syrup. A lot of the produce I use comes from a biodynamic farm near Sancerre. It was honestly one of the draws of this residency, having access to amazing produce - that and the retro café vibes of the space itself.
How are your plans going for your own restaurant? Aube is a great stepping stone to my own restaurant, which should come to fruition next year.
If you weren’t a chef, you would be..? Ì think perhaps a florist. I'm really sensitive to colour, texture and composition. All things I also think about when I compose recipes.
What’s your failsafe restaurant in Paris? I really like Le Servan and eating at the bar of Le Mary Celeste.
A place you wish more people knew about? The neighbourhood around Aube! It's in a really creative part of the 11th district, across the street is a sculptor who does weekly classes for kids and adults. Just next to Aube is a natural wine bar called Bu and across the street is a traditional French restaurant where the owner sings opera behind the bar. It has a strong neighbourhood vibe. And coincidentally, down the street is Speos, the photography school I attended when I first arrived in Paris.
Someone or somewhere in Paris you wish more people knew about? Sainte Anne gallery in the 2nd. They promote emerging female artists. The works are often of a poetic nature and use organic and sustainable materials.
Most incredible project you’ve worked on? I'm currently working on a project for next summer's Paris Olympics - but I can't say anything more for the moment!
What’s the area you live in like? I live in the 3rd. I do most of my food shopping at Miyam on rue Beaubourg - they have a low-waste approach that I really admire. I like the park du Temple for impromptu picnics, whether with a group of friends and our kids in the grass or just for sharing a bottle of wine on a bench when we want to avoid the busy terraces nearby. I also really like the Picasso museum and the rather secret rooftop cafe. I go quite often as they are one of the museums that offers free admission to artists and authors.
What’s next for you? I have a cookbook with Norton Books coming out in the States next spring.
Absolute dream project? Opening a small hotel somewhere in the South of France not far from water and mountains - but first my restaurant in Paris!
Stay up to date with Carrie’s news and her exciting new projects in the pipeline on her Instagram account: @carrie_in_paris