Coffee. Definitely coffee.
Once you've got your steaming mug ready, crawl back under the covers before they get cold, plump your pillow, and lay back with this month's installment of Breakfast Scrolls.
Welcome to Breakfast Scrolls, the mid-month morning edit of the What’s Up, Paris? newsletter. Thank you for being here! ✨💌
Hey there, and welcome to all the new folks following along. I’m so glad you’re here to share what’s happening around Paris, especially fab projects by independent chefs, artists, and entrepreneurs who deserve a spot on your radar. In this weekend edition, Jessie Kanelos Weiner, a brilliant artist and stand-up comedian, tells me about her new book (the preorder link went live yesterday, people!) and, of course, her Paris brekkie go-tos (that’s breakfast, for my non-British friends here). It’s a frosty, invigorating weekend here in Paris, with snowflakes forecast today and bright sunshine tomorrow. Soak it up with this month’s micro-itinerary or nearby escape. Hope you have a good one! – Roxy x
Breakfast Reads 🥞
Here’s a little of what’s been going on lately in Paris.
You’ll probably have heard that one of Paris’ biggest landmarks reopened last December after a devastating fire in 2019. Well, it took about 250 companies, 2,000 workers, about $900 million, a tight deadline and a lot of national pride to rebuild it. | The New York Times
How Paris’ red-light district became a playground for food lovers | The Michelin Guide
How Virgin trains could rival the Eurostar and bring down ticket prices | The Independent
The final stage of the Tour de France might be moved to Montmartre (like for the Olympics), and why it should only be for a year | Cycling Weekly
In Paris' Latin Quarter, a historic building becomes a huge luxury hotel | Le Monde (English)
Morning Mingle ☕
I’m brightening up my January with Jessie Kanelos Weiner’s fun and witty Paris-infused illustrations. With her upcoming book ‘Thinking in Watercolor,’ she reminds us how powerful getting lost in the process of a creative project can truly be. ✨
Jessie and I had followed one another on Instagram for years. When I finally met her in person last year, it felt like I already knew her. In real life, Jessie is as warm and magnetic as her work suggests—a gentle, bubbly character who somehow balances being reserved yet bold.
A Northside Chicagoan, Jessie Kanelos Weiner has journeyed far—both geographically and creatively—since her childhood days of cutting and gluing her way through art projects. Now based in Vincennes, a suburb just outside Paris, the 38-year-old artist, mother, and storyteller has carved out a unique space in the world of illustration and performance.
From illustrating for luxury brands to taking the stage in Parisian comedy clubs, or starring in a HuffPost video hilariously critiquing America’s most outlandish food creations, Jessie’s creativity knows no bounds. Now, her upcoming book, Thinking in Watercolor, opens the door to her colourful, clever world, encouraging readers to embrace their own artistic journeys.
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How does your work reflect who you are?
My mom found a note about me when I was a small child and it was something along the lines of "Jessie loves drawing, cutting up paper and gluing things together". I feel like not much has changed since. I'm a deeply creative person and it trickles down to everything I do: illustrations, 3D models, food, writing, performance. I'm also a colourist.
How did you start out?
When my French husband and I got married in 2011, I had no idea what my job prospects would be. My background is in costume design, but I didn't have the right diploma or contacts here. I started a blog recounting my transatlantic move, my cultural faux pas, being married to a frenchie etc. I always loved drawing so I illustrated my texts with watercolors, instead of terrible 2011 iphone pics. I think the blog was the catalyst where I found my voice as a writer/illustrator. My husband was like "wow these drawings are really good" and pushed me to pursue illustration. Little by little, I built up my portfolio and started getting commissioned work. Now I mainly work with luxury brands and illustrate books.
When and why did you move to Paris?
After graduation, I had a year before I had to pay off my student loans and I knew it was the year to travel. I found a terrible job as an au pair in Paris (I had a 1 nespresso capsule allotment a day) and I moved a few weeks later. Honestly, it was an Amelie fantasy. I dreamt of being in a place that valued beauty and culture instead of money and hustle.
What’s kept you here?
Paris gets so much better with time. Having a kid has expanded my local community and has helped me grow real roots.
A neighbourhood you never get bored of?
I love everything around Palais Royal (1st arrondissement).
Your happy place in Paris?
My artist studio at Usine Chapal in Montreuil and having a day where I can just focus on painting and make a giant mess.
You’ve got a book out soon - can you tell us about it?
I thought you'd never ask. Thinking in Watercolor is not your dry toast, copy-and-paste watercolor book based on rote copying. It merges watercolor techniques and how to adapt them to a reader's personal experiences. It's inspiring, encouraging, funny, and creatively challenging. And it's peppered throughout with my own visual story of moving to Paris as an unformed young artist and how I found my way.
You’ve contributed to lots of books before - is illustration your favorite aspect of your work?
Illustration is all about finding solutions to visual problems and I love the process of working closely with clients and I feel like Thinking in Watercolor is a full-circle moment with the blog I started almost 15 years ago, merging my writing and illustrations.
What did you hope to achieve through your book?
My book gives readers permission to start where they are and find inspiration within themselves. I think a lot of people disconnect from drawing because of a discouraging childhood art teacher or because the arts aren't given professional "value". There's something so powerful about getting lost in the process of a creative project and this book can do that.
Why should we should read it?
This is a priceless read for anyone who likes to draw, but doesn't know what to draw. And for those who want to develop a deeper creative practice.
Do you have a hidden talent?
I sing and play guitar. It comes out every now and then.
Was comedy one of them?
There's always been a lot of humour in my illustrations; I even published a piece that I wrote and illustrated in The New Yorker. Two years ago, I was going through a bout with long covid and feeling miserable. I was watching the opening monologue of the Oscars and felt moved by the spirit to do standup. I wrote my first five minutes of jokes and signed up for an open mic session. And I've committed to performing 1-2 times a week since then. I always dreamed of being a musical theatre actress, but was too scared to audition. I never considered doing standup before, but it merges my writing and the theatrical side of myself I put on standby for so many years. I think artists can do anything and it's been a very fun, fulfilling development in my life. I perform in both English and French in various comedy clubs and theatres throughout Paris.
What do you think it is that people find funny in your performance?
After 16 years in Paris, I had to do something with all of my stories! I like to say it's Emily in Paris season 16, without the Netflix money.
Are you a breakfast fan? Or is brunch more your bag?
Both. My go-to spot is actually my place. I like recreating my favorite diner breakfasts from back home, but with good French ingredients.
What gets your weekend started?
This is terribly French but my son does fencing on Saturday mornings. Our other ritual is shopping at our local market in Vincennes, where we stock up on fresh fruits and vegetables for the week. The other day my son exclaimed, "I just adore the smells of the market". I call it our Beauty and the Beast moment where we shout bonjour to all of our friends there. France is all about the ritual.
Croissant or pain au chocolat?
Croissant for breakfast, pain au chocolat for goûter. But not every day.
What do people love the most about you?
Because of the work I do, I am extremely sensitive. But I've learned to embrace that it's not a weakness, but helps me connect with people on a deeper level and see things that no one else can.
A cliché about Paris that you find hilarious?
For all you hear about how Parisians hate tourists and the Eiffel Tower, it's always funny to find home goods covered in French paraphernalia at Monoprix (a local supermarket chain). The French love it all too.
Something about the city you never get bored of painting?
The colours of Paris can drastically change with the seasons. I love studying the city in all its nuances.
What’s next for you?
I'm headed back to America for a book tour. I haven't been back in six years and it's my son's first time. Honestly, I look forward to continuing doing what I'm doing!
Keep up with Jessie and her creations, workshops and stand-up dates on her Instagram account @jessiekanelosweiner and find out more about her work and book, which you can also preorder now.
The Weekender: Casa Rosalie 🍃
Casa Rosalie is the kind of place that makes you forget about the hustle of Paris — cozy cabins, starry skies, and delicious homemade meals, all set in a quiet corner of lower Normandy that feels like a world away.
When you get to the Perche, just two hours from Paris, the pace suddenly slows, and the countryside takes over. Its charm lies not only in its natural beauty but also in its growing community. Over recent years, it’s become a bit of a trendsetter, drawing chefs, artisans, and young entrepreneurs eager to escape the city and build something new, while the small, central village of Mortagne offers a glimpse of Medieval France, with its cobblestone streets and charming restaurants serving dishes like boudin noir to a local crowd.
It’s here, amidst forests and farmland that you’ll find Casa Rosalie, a collection of three minimalist cabins designed by couple Anne-Christelle Roussel and Bertrand L’huillier.
Arriving after dark, I spotted by the warm glow of lights in the windows of our cabin, Casa Slow. As we stepped out of the car, we were enveloped by the quiet, frosty night. Above, the sky was dotted with stars and was more dazzling than anything I had ever seen. The small cabin, tucked in the woods, had floor-to-ceiling windows that framed hesitant deer hiding among pine trees and the heated pool that overhangs a shimmering lake.
The sofa and beds are piled with softs throws and fluffy cushions, tempting you to spend entire days sipping on cups of hot chocolate and gazing out at the surroundings as they change in the light. In the evening, a delicious home-cooked meal awaited us; mushroom risotto and local hams. In the morning, a breakfast of fresh croissants and jam was delivered to our door, setting us up for a day of calm.
It’s the sort of place where you can be with the great outdoors without having to venture outside if you don’t want to, but if you do, there’s swimming and lots of walks to be had.
Micro-itinerary: Les Epinettes🚶🏽♀️
Get showered and lace up! It’s time to take a stroll through this little corner of Paris’ 17th district, that most Parisians don’t even know about.
Slotted between Saint-Ouen and the Batignolles, just a 20-minute walk from Montmartre, Les Épinettes neighborhood holds onto a quiet charm. It’s here, on the pedestrian Cité des Fleurs, that Catherine Deneuve was born, and in another townhouse, artist Simon Hantaï lived. While gentrification is slowly creeping in, Les Épinettes remains a melting pot of global communities, families seeking a slower pace, and artists and models who escape here during fashion weeks and art fairs.
Stretching from Guy Môquet metro to the bustling Avenue de Saint-Ouen, and bordering the relaxed Batignolles, Les Épinettes feels like a small, self-contained slice of Paris. Locals take pride in their independent bars like Octopussy and Irène et Bernard, restaurants like CHez Lucette, and shops like Florian Mésère, master chocolate-maker, fueling a quiet, offbeat energy that still feels like a hidden gem.
Until next time… leaving you with a French fave: 80s hit Je danse le mia, by star French Marseillais rappers IAM, to get you up and going 🎶 Bon week-end!