3, 2, 1...
...it's here! Christmas month, that is. Fret not though: you don't have to love this time of year to read on. There's the first art show at the Grand Palais, great eats and a special gift✨
December’s here with all the festive cheer you now know I’m not-so-secretly obsessed with. As an end-of-year gift, my friend, illustrator Sonja Bajic, who’s pimped this newsletter with her playful drawings, is giving readers a special discount off her coveted calendar. Speaking of gifts, I’m also sharing a festive shopping selection of well-priced edible treats from Paris to gift or keep, and more. -Roxy x
4 Things On My Radar This December
Dip into the Icelandic woods at the Pompidou, revel in Christmas cheer (and raclette) and don’t forget to book to see Paris’ headlining act.
Until 9th December, hear Nature Manifesto at the Centre Pompidou, Björk’s evocative sound installation blending a post-optimistic manifesto, the cries of extinct animals, and natural soundscapes, as you move between floors on your next visit.
‘Tis the season for festive pop-ups! I’m most excited about Monsieur Aristide hotel in Montmartre doing a special raclette chalet restaurant (more on that later); for flashier crowds there’s also the one at the Hyatt Vendôme. Galeries Lafeyttes’ ginormous tree is up, Christmas markets are popping up all over and the world’s biggest ice rink inside the Grand Palais is back!
Also at the reopened Grand Palais, The Soul Trembles is an immersive journey through Japanese artist Chiharu Shiota's poetic installations of intertwined threads and evocative objects. This largest-ever showcase of the Berlin-based artist in France invites visitors to explore themes of memory, dreams, and the fragility of life through breathtaking large-scale works.
Everyone’s talking about the grand reopening of Notre-Dame. After five years of meticulous restoration following the devastating 2019 fire that darkened the Parisian sky, the iconic 14th-century cathedral is ready to welcome the world once more. One of Paris's most beloved landmarks, it officially reopens on December 7th, with a live-streamed ceremony, and opens to the public the next day.
On The Menu
The places I’ve loved eating at this last month, from a tucked-away bistro in the 12th to the most beautiful spot that’s bringing a little Spanish soul to the city.
When my friend Georgie suggested lunch all the way out in the 12th, I’ll admit I hesitated. But the moment I stepped into Ty Louis, any trace of doubt vanished. A lively Breton spot, here, traditional dishes are made with top-quality regional ingredients, straight from local producers. Militant about artisanal products, this dedication sets Ty Louis a cut above the rest. Packed at lunch, it’s a steal with a fresh, homemade menu under €25.
Where great meat takes centre stage, Bien Elevé (well raised) champions a “less but better” philosophy with exceptional cuts sourced from the sustainable Ferme de Châteauneuf since 2016 - and, as my friend Emily will agree, the most amazing buttery potatoes. With total transparency and market-fresh seasonal sides, is the place to go for even the most discerning of meat-lovers.
Around the corner from Champs-Elysées, my new buddy Sulekha and I popped into Suelo, one of Paris’s most beautiful restaurants with a hidden bar tucked behind a basement drinks cabinet, by my favorite designer Lázaro Rosa-Violán. Don’t miss the urchin and carabineros, sea bream crudo, and heart-warming orzo with seafood.
Dame brings a shiny '70s vibe with retro décor and a groovy vinyl soundtrack to this quiet corner of the trendy 9th district flanking Pigalle. Chef Matthieu Charriaud serves up generous sharing plates like beetroot carpaccio and line-caught cod, with the fun option of ordering portions in three sizes to share, or not. After 9pm, the music gets louder, and the dancing begins.
Tucked into the back of the Louvre, Loulou has a terrace right in the Tuileries Gardens and a view of the Eiffel Tower in the distance. That's in summer, but in winter, the chic Italian dining room (think thick patterned rugs and marble tables) is inviting and cosy. Order the Pipe Rigate alla vodka - it's the perfect pick-me-up in this miserable weather!
Get Your 2025 On the Rails
Paris-based illustrator Sonja Bajic is throwing in a little gift for readers.
Sonja doesn’t just customise Substacks, she’s a fully fledged illustrator with maps like this food of France one being a bit of a signature! She’ll also pop all your special places on your own map and every year, she brings out her wall calendar. Want one? Readers get a discount with the code WHATSUP. See what else she’s up to on her Substack.
Christmas Treats From Paris
As well as Sonja’s fab illustrated calendar of Parisian food shops, I wanted to share some treats for friends, family - or yourself ;)
Founded by King Louis XVI’s chemist, at Debauve & Gallais, it’s all about perfectly crafted chocolates, classic truffles, and the kind of service that’s been a Paris tradition for over 200 years. Order a box of Marie-Antoinette’s pistoles, originally created as a chocolate coin blending her awfully tasting medication to ease away her headaches.
If you’re craving something savoury, then buy cheese. Nothing beats a crumbly, fruity comté! Most fromageries offering the good stuff by the cut, will vacuum pack your little slices so they’ll withstand the most taxing of journeys in any suitcase. I personally love Marie Quatrehomme in the 7th district, who was the first woman to receive the prestigious Meilleur Ouvrier de France distinction (Best Artisan of France).
If you’re buying bubbly on a budget, don’t be tempted by supermarket finds - throw in an extra 5 euros and get a bottle of Fauchon’s brut champagne. Its fine bubbles and clean taste were so good, that it took me by surprise!
A big *merci* to all you What’s Up, Paris? readers and subscribers for being here! I hope you have a very Merry Christmas and/or happy end-of-year, and I’ll be seeing you in 2025. A bientôt! ✨