24 Hours In Belleville

A cluster of streets lined with Chinese restaurants, well-priced bars and restaurants and artist ateliers, it’s one of the last bastions of real bohemian cool.

It’s not my neighbourhood but this spot south of the Buttes Chaumont park is one of the few places I could see myself living for the diverse population (it’s known for Chinese restaurants and supermarkets), laid-back, creative bars and restaurants and a gritty atmosphere despite the ongoing gentrification. 

A multi-ethnic, historically working class neighbourhood, it’s home to artists and independent business owners looking for a corner of the capital to set up where rent is still reasonable. Today, it’s a diverse area that’s got plenty to keep you busy - click below for the full guide, map and address book.

10am

Start with a coffee and tartine at the shabby chic gallery-café Floréal Belleville inside an old Art Nouveau bistro. If you’re a coffee buff, then you’ll be happy to know they partner with the local roasters, Brûlerie de Belleville. They have a good brunch on Sundays and host events most days. This month, there’s a second-hand market on the 8th, (12-6pm), a music album release party, and a number of exhibitions like Franco-Cameroonian artist Calixte Bernard’s first solo show starting 25th May at 6pm.

12pm

Get to Paloma at 12pm on the dot to avoid queuing for this bistrot in a Belleville side street, where a three-course lunch of simple French-Mediterranean dishes comes in at an unbeatable 16 euros. Switch things up and head to Chez Ramona for sunny Spanish bites. A local institution for the last decade or more, here Romana herself rustles up paella and tapas. If you want to escape Europe all together, then Lao Siam, another local favourite, is perfect for a hop to Asia - order the tamarind fish and pineapple rice.

2pm

You can’t come to Belleville without checking out some of the neighbourhood’s art galleries. Try Artame or Mémoire de l'Avenir and don’t miss the artist ateliers of Belleville on rue Francis Picabia, which will be throwing open their doors most of the night June 1st-4th. There aren’t a lot of shops in Belleville, but pick up a few cooking essentials from corner stores like Epicerie Sabbah, Ocean Tropical, or Les Halles de L’Asie supermarket on rue de Belleville. Drop by at Rose de Tunis for tasty sticky and sweet Tunisian pastries. For something more French, pop in at La Cave de Belleville to get some wine and saucisson for your apéro.

3pm

My new favourite hang-out has to be Bokbar, a small Swedish bookshop and café which does tea and cake until around 4pm on most days. I love it for the friendly staff and soothing atmosphere, probably due to all the wonderful natural light it gets thanks to its corner location and windows running across the entire length of the space. 

4pm

Stop at Aux Folies on the outdoor terrace that curves around onto rue Desnoyez, a historical spot for colourful street art and graffiti, or on the Culture Rapide terrace below the monumental street art piece by artist Ben that reads “Beware of words,” for a well-priced beer in the sun. Stay on for their slam poetry nights.

6pm

Take a stroll at this hidden park at the back of the Belleville action with undulating hilly slopes and a killer view of the Eiffel Tower from the top. A great spot for sunset drinks and a stroll.

8pm

Make sure to book a table at independent venue Dame Jane, a revolving chefs’ residency with a fantastic, handpicked selection of natural wines. This month from 22nd May, Damien Teixidor (the former co-founder of Native restaurant in Perpignan) will be gracing Paris with his creative cooking focused on fermented foods for a unique added edge. If they don’t have a table, another neighbourhood spot to try out for modern French food and natural tipples is the laid back Candide (just don’t be in a rush to get your drinks or food… service is friendly but slow). 

After 9pm

For something truly special, get yourself to Combat, where the all-woman cast of mixologists will rustle up a cocktail to remember. 

If you have more time

• Dinner at Le Grand Bain on rue Desnoyez, which has always been adorned with colourful graffiti and street art.

• Guo Xin for raviolis.

• Mian Guan for homemade noodles.

• Dinner at Kissproof.

Address book:                              

Floréal Belleville - 43 Rue des Couronnes, 75020 Paris

Paloma - 93 Rue Julien Lacroix, 75020 Paris

Chez Ramona - 17 Rue Ramponeau, 75020 Paris

Artame - 37 Rue Ramponeau, 75020 Paris

Mémoire de l'Avenir - 45 Rue Ramponeau, 75020 Paris

Ocean Tropical - 46 Bd de Belleville, 75020 Paris 

Bokbar - 72 Rue Julien Lacroix, 75020 Paris

La Cave de Belleville - 51 Rue de Belleville, 75019 Paris

Aux Folies - 8 Rue de Belleville, 75020 Paris

Artist Ateliers of Belleville - 1 Rue Francis Picabia, 75020 Paris

La Rose de Tunis - 67 Bd de Belleville, 75011 Paris

Belleville Park - 7 Rue des Couronnes, 75020 Paris

Dame Jane - 39 Rue Ramponeau, 75020 Paris

Candide - 5 Rue de Sambre-et-Meuse, 75010 Paris

Combat - 63 Rue de Belleville, 75019 Paris

Culture Rapide - 103 Rue Julien Lacroix, 75020 Paris

Lao Siam - 49 Rue de Belleville, 75019 Paris

Disco Bar - 92 Rue Rebeval, 75019 Paris

Le Grand Bain - 14 Rue Denoyez, 75020 Paris

Guo Xin - 47 Rue de Belleville, 75019 Paris

Mian Guan - 34 Rue de Belleville, 75020 Paris

Kissproof - 50 Rue de Belleville, 75020 Paris