Mayhem on the metro
There's a new arts hub opening on the fringes of the city, I share places I've loved eating at this last month, and you’ll find my very short guide to the neighbourhood being hailed as Paris’ coolest.
What’s Up, Paris?’ is a twice-monthly newsletter for Parisians and visitors eager to experience the city through the lens of locals. A heartfelt thank you for subscribing!
Anyone who's had to navigate Paris' metro (underground train) during rush hour knows the drill: you watch five trains pass before you can squeeze onto one, your nose pressed against grimy windows or, worse yet, someone's armpit (yes, lines 13 and 9, I'm looking at you...). It makes me wonder if the smooth logistics we saw during the Olympics were just for show. Meanwhile, as I huddle on the metro, I tune in to Monocle Radio's latest podcast on revitalising American cities like San Francisco, which lacks footfall, and I think how Paris and SF could maybe swap some intel... As someone who isn’t an urban analyst, I’m probably better off sticking to discussing what's happening in Paris this October. Over the years, the autumn has become a time to savour pre-winter vibes and embrace Halloween, despite it being a predominantly American celebration facing initial resistance. This month, the city will also be ticking to the rhythm of Art Basel Paris, another American import, originally Swiss but now synonymous with Miami, replacing the city’s historic FIAC art fair since 2022. I'll let you ponder that. Have a splendid autumn – or should I say 'fall'? Roxy x
4 things on my radar this October
I may throw in some British sarcasm about the Americanised autumn in Paris, but I secretly love it. That aside, here’s what I’m hoping to check out this month - including Art Basel.
Embracing the Parisian indie spirit. The Soukmachines collective, known for reviving disused buildings on the city outskirts, is back with a new project, Le Gros Lot, inside the former Orange telecom offices in Gennevilliers. I remember loving their first project, Le 6B, and they’ve gone from strength to strength since. They’ve now secured a 10-year lease for Le Gros Lot, promising plenty of art exhibitions, performances, and late-night dancing. It kicks off on 12 October with open studios from the 40 artists in residence and a party until 2 am.
Getting on the art circuit. Art Basel Paris returns from 18-20 October, hosted in the newly renovated Grand Palais. This majestic venue, my favorite of all Parisian landmarks, is steeped in history and grandeur. If you're in town, it's a must-see, whether you go to Art Basel or not.
Hearing voices. If jam-packed art fairs aren’t your thing, check out the quieter Also Known As Africa (AKAA) in the Marais, running from 18-20 October. It’s a platform for the continent’s boldest artists. For an even quieter art week experience, head to the Paris branch of the Hauser & Wirth gallery for Rachid Johnson’s show Anima, opening on 14 October. One of the leading voices of his generation, the American artist explores the concepts of interiority and self-reflection.
Savouring France’s funnest wines. Wine and food bar Yard is hosting its own natural wine festival on Sunday 27 October, with tastings from 25 winemakers. Can’t make it? The Fête des Vendanges de Montmartre from 9-13 October celebrates wine and art across the 18th arrondissement. Just brace yourself for the crowds.
On the menu
The places I’ve loved eating at this last month, which serve up creative French food to flavours hailing from Southeast Asia.
Good things come in small packages at L’Arpaon. Tucked at the base of Montmartre in the Jules Joffrin neighbourhood, this pocket-sized dining spot only has a few tables lined up in front of an open kitchen. It was my friend Steph’s birthday and it was her suggestion - she’s a bottomless well of recs. Just like the rest of the place, the menu is small, with only two or three options per course, but each dish packs a punch. The tangy tuna taco is out of this world, and the couscous-style vol-au-vent that is like a Yorkshire pudding doused in a meaty gravy, pulled at my British heartstrings. It’s a no-frills place with retro accents like a Shamrock-green exterior that contrasts perfectly with the beech wood panelling inside. I can't wait to see what chefs Yann Botbol and Nathan Sebagh dream up next.
The new standard of coffeeshop at Café Shin. Paris is no stranger to culinary collaborations, but Café Shin stands out for the little-known flavours of its fare and drinks. This venture between South Korean chef Eun Jung Shin and Julien Sebbag (of Créatures and Forest fame), offers a sleek yet unpretentious environment with waxed cement floors and a walnut bar. The small lunch menu comprises expertly rolled doenjang (Korean miso) kimbaps, packed with fresh vegetables and/or meat or fish, and heart-warming drinks like Heukimja latté (black sesame cream with coffee) and velvety Goguma latté made with purple sweet potato. The croffle, a hybrid croissant-waffle topped with matcha ice cream, is decadent but light. This duo’s struck a rare balance with their creative, tasty, healthy alternatives, knocking the butter-slathered jambon fromage baguette sandwich off the top spot on its home turf.
Adding a whole new dimension of flavour at The Hood. Pearlyn Lee’s The Hood has carved out a niche in Paris, offering flavours from her native Singapore and other Southeast Asian countries, since 2016. Last month, fellow Paris-based journalist Lindsey Tramuta helped put together an event for the launch of Chope Chope, a series of pop-ups with a rotation of brilliant Singaporean chefs. The ‘opening act’ as he calls himself, was Jeremy Nguee who whipped up tasty Berembah chicken tenders with sriracha mayo and silky seafood laksa Goreng (wheat noodles sauteed with coconut milk, tofu, prawns and fishcake). I could hop on a plane to Singapore right away for just one more bite of his soulful cooking.
Vietnamese sandwiches to go at Nonette. Also owned by Pearlyn Lee of The Hood (above), Nonette is a take-away counter offering mouth-watering Vietnamese bánh mì sandwiches. Friendly trio Sky, Hasnan, and Kenneth serve up open sandwiches filled with crispy chicken/veg, fresh veggies, and sauces that will take your taste buds on a journey. The kaya donuts, filled with things like matcha cream, are made fresh daily and pair perfectly with a can of Yeo’s sweet lychee juice - a Singaporean brand of beverages that’s very much a part of childhood memories for many Southeast Asians. Grab a seat on one of the brightly coloured plastic stools out front, or take your treats to enjoy at a bench outside Maison des Métallos performing arts hub up the street.
Bitter-sweet goodness at Le Cornichon. Revamping old-school Parisian bars with a retro edge like Le Cornichon is in vogue right now and founders Bertrand Chauveau and Paul Henri have done a stellar job in tapping Laure Gravier and Soizic Fougeront from the interior design agency Claves. As we tucked into our rigatoni doused in a buttery lemon sauce and sprinkled with sage crisps, my lunch buddy Seb and I agreed that while the pasta was good, we would have preferred to try the very well-priced day’s specials (all gone by 1pm). As a starter, I had the tomatoes and he the whelks - we agreed they were good too. The atmosphere was lively and despite the lack of specials, I loved it. You’re immersed in the kind of nostalgia you want to hold onto. While the decor takes you back in time, you really do have to get there early for a chance to try the full menu.
Micro-itinerary in Belleville
Belleville’s got Chinese noodle bars, street art, indie restaurants, cocktails bars, and tucked-way artist ateliers. It’s no wonder it’s been hailed as the coolest hood in the city.
☝️☝️ The area fans out from main artery rue de Belleville, which is lined with Chinese restaurants like Mian Guan where they stretch and beat their own noodles, as well as local favourite Thai spot Lao Siam and bars like the neon-lit Culture Rapide which has a big leafy terrace and slam nights (don’t forget to look up while on the terrace for artist Ben’s in situ work that reads ‘Beware of words') and Aux Folies which do cheap pints, or Combat and Kissproof for proper cocktails. Off the main road, on rue Julien Lacroix is Paloma, which does a three-course lunch menu for an unbeatable 16€. Stop at the Nordic Bokbar across the street for a coffee and cake or Floréal, close to Belleville park and its waves of lawn. Modern bistros Le Baratin and Le Grand Bain are also worth checking out. Make sure to pop into revolving chefs’ residency Dame Jane for dinner too. As far as places to stay go, there’s the beautiful Babel and hostel People of Belleville.
That’s it for now. A big merci for reading October’s edit of What’s Up, Paris? See you again for the mid-month weekend instalment of Breakfast Scrolls.
Love all those places in Belleville ! Also loved Soces and Cheval d'Or
They (Cornichon) just needed a back-up formule! C'est normal!