Pull up a chair
A Paris writer I once took a spin class with joins me for a breakfast chat about her book, out Tuesday. News you might’ve missed, and my slightly sleep-deprived stay in a castle keeper's home.
If you’ve ever messaged with me on Microsoft Teams, you’ll know I have a weakness for gifs. Especially the slightly cringey ones. Honestly, I think that part of the reason I write this weekend edit is just so I can justify scrolling through a mountain of gifs.
So, when I stumbled across this gem of a gif - legendary Pulp Fiction duo Jules and Vincent having breakfast - it felt like striking gold. Naturally, I had to rewatch the scene. It’s oddly comforting, like sitting with two old friends over coffee, muffins, bacon - and existential dread. A moment of calm before the storm.
Now, this morning’s vibe is far from Tarantino territory, but writer and journalist Lindsey Tramuta is here for a mingle and a breakfast chat about her latest book, that comes out on Tuesday.
Before that: a few bits of city news I’ve enjoyed reading this week, and a countryside escape an hour or so outside the city. It’s set in an old castle keeper’s home a short drive from a farm restaurant that’s a favourite with Parisians.
Breakfast Reads 🥞
Here’s a little of what’s been going on in Paris lately.
The legendary Westin Vendôme hotel, built in 1878 across from the Tuileries Gardens, is long past its prime; so it’s closing for renovations until 2028 | Sortir à Paris (English)
Progress on continuing to rewild Paris’ disused railway | The Guardian
From Balzac’s printing house to Christo’s iron curtain: rue Visconti (Paris 6) seems to still be thriving with a printing house, book store and art galleries | Le Monde (English)
La Fondation, an arty hub of a hotel with a climbing wall in Paris 17, is now open | T Magazine
Paris is getting more trees, but is there a downside? | Le Monde (English)
Morning Mingle ☕
Lindsey Tramuta’s new book, The Eater Guide to Paris, dives deep into the city’s ever-evolving food scene with nuance, heart, and plenty of recommendations. She’s here to tell us more.
Lindsey Tramuta is one of those rare voices who writes about Paris with clarity, curiosity, and just the right dose of irreverence. A journalist and author based in the 11th arrondissement for nearly two decades, she’s made it her mission to dig beneath the clichés and present a fuller picture of the city; its culture, its food scene, its contradictions.
I first met Lindsey at a lunch at the beautiful Hôtel Particulier up in Montmartre, and soon after, unexpectedly found myself next to her in a spinning class for “work”. That was about a decade ago, and since, I've enjoyed following her thoughtful, ever-evolving work.
She’s got a new book out The Eater Guide to Paris on 29th April; this morning, she answers my questions about what’s kept her here, the book, and breakfast choices.
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Tell us a bit about you.
I was born in Philadelphia; grew up in the suburbs. I’m soon-to-be 40 (!!) and I’ve lived in the 11th arrondissement for 19 years. I’m a journalist and author who bristles at stereotypes and has tried, through her reporting and writing, to present a richer and more nuanced understanding of France — warts and all.
Some things you love?
Cats, coffee, books, and dining out.
When did you move to Paris?
In 2006, to continue my university studies in French literature. I came for a summer, fell in love in more ways than one, and returned for my last semester of undergrad and never left!
What’s kept you here?
The language, the culture, the personal blossoming that living in France has allowed, and, of course, love.
A neighbourhood you never get bored of?
Belleville.
Your happy place in Paris?
The Palais Royal gardens.
How do your lifestyle-writing roots inform the more society-driven stories you pursue today?
I think they dovetail perfectly — it occurred to me early on, that it was impossible to disconnect the societal evolutions within Parisian or French society from the shifts in gastronomy, urbanism, or the arts writ large.
What kickstarted the shift from lifestyle writing?
I think I was always interested in the factors contributing to trends, movements, and ideas — so I tried not to treat a restaurant opening in isolation but as part of understanding how the city is changing. Same for what’s happening in the hotel industry or design and crafts. This work really ramped up with my first book, The New Paris, and has been the driving force behind the stories I pursue ever since.
You’ve got a book out soon — why should we read it?
Because you love Paris, you love food, and you love learning about both.
Can you tell us about it?
Yes! This one is a collaboration with Eater, the American food culture and dining publication that I have contributed to for many many years. The Eater Guide to Paris is full of recommendations, maps, and insights from some truly brilliant local tastemakers. The format follows the structure established by the Eater team in their first two city dining compendiums to New York and Los Angeles and goes far beyond a simple guide to include historical and cultural context thematic deep dives, itineraries for getting out of the city for a weekend, and a very fun 24 hours in Paris.
What did you hope to achieve through your new book?
To offer a variety of experiences for a wide range of budgets and preferences and to be helpful !
Is there an underlying trend you highlight?
My goal was to highlight the old and the new but I’m really happy the team at Eater was more than excited for me to dig into why diaspora cuisine is making Paris an even better dining city, on top of why it’s a great time for sandwich lovers, like myself!
You’ve written two other books and contributed lots of stories to international publications — what story has stood out to you the most?
Any time I can spotlight women, I will. The New Parisienne has meant the most to me as an in-depth book project — even if the flattening of women’s stories and our understanding of the Parisienne hasn’t improved since (it’s going to take more than one or two books to do so!). But in my journalism career, a few stories stand out — one about green travel in Lebanon, that ran in 2019; one about a safari outfitter in Botswana that is truly committed to conservation; and this one about France’s enduring appeal to Americans for the indie mag Mastermind. Perhaps the most cathartic, however, was this essay for New York Magazine.
Most exciting project so far?
In my whole career?! Each year brings something enriching, I think, but the book projects, and the feedback I’ve gotten from readers, have meant the most to me.
Dream future project?
Write a very very very successful book based on my Parisian cats that I can sell in the bookstore I’ve dreamed of owning (you did say dream project…!)
Aside from writing, do you have a hidden talent?
I can sing!
What do people love the most about you?
If I had to guess, my loyalty.
Are you more breakfast or brunch?
Breakfast, no contest.
What’s your breakfast go-to in Paris?
Give me a hearty egg dish with excellent sourdough, salted butter, and some baked beans or something and I’m happy. Usually that’s best delivered at Holybelly but there are other spots! Café Méricourt is a forever favorite for breakfast, as is Fauna. Excellent coffee needs to be in the mix, and all three deliver.
What gets your weekend started?
Making coffee at home and reading the FT Weekend as my cats lounge between me and my husband on the couch.
Croissant or pain au chocolat?
Croissant.
A cliché about Paris that you find hilarious?
This is more of a general French cliché but it’s the one where they don’t bathe (eye roll). If anyone smells, 99% of the time it’s because they haven’t washed their clothes (properly) or their garments smell damp. That’s quite different from body odour!
What has living in Paris taught you?
That it’s entirely possible to have work-life balance and find joy — whether it’s in a stroll around the block or a cup of coffee — every day.
What’s been the biggest change you’ve seen in Paris since moving here?
Pollution levels have radically decreased thanks to Mayor Hidalgo’s efforts, even if unpopular for many, to make the city less hospitable to cars. It needed to be done!
If you turned back time, would you move here again?
Over and over again.
Something about the city you never get bored of talking about?
The good Anne Hidalgo has done for this city and yet is relentlessly disparaged.
Your weekend sound?
What’s next for you?
More stories to report! Bigger projects; let’s see.
Keep up with Lindsey, her projects and tours, by signing up to her Substack The New Paris Dispatch, or following along on Instagram @lindseytramuta, where you can find out more and order her book.
The Weekender: Le Domaine de Courances 🍃
A charming château, a sleepless night, and a nearby restaurant serving vegetables so fresh, they almost seem like they’ve been plucked from a dream.
Just an hour south of Paris, on the edge of the Gâtinais forest in the Essonne département, the Château de Courances rises from the landscape like a scene from a quietly composed period film: honey-hued stone, slate rooftops, a double staircase, and 185 acres of formal gardens and forested parkland. Still privately owned and lived in, the 17th-century estate remains remarkably intact — both architecturally and atmospherically.
I stayed in the former estate manager’s house, La Régie, now part of the Pierres d’Histoire collection of historic rentals across France. The cottage sits just inside the château gates and has been carefully restored without erasing its history — mismatched velvet armchairs, hand-drawn botanical sketches in the hallway, books on Barbizon artists stacked near the fireplace. It feels more like borrowing a friend’s family home than booking a weekend escape.
Sleep, however, was elusive. My little daughter, still a toddler back then, cried most of the night — the kind of full-throttle, existential wailing that makes you question every life choice that led you here. At dawn, somewhere between exhausted and hallucinatory, our little family of three wandered the château grounds, chestnut trees creaking in the breeze. It was magical or mildly eerie — hard to tell on two hours of sleep.
A short drive away, in the village of Saint-Vrain, Le Doyenné draws weekenders from Paris for its elegantly pared-back dining room and vegetable-led menus grown on-site. It's the kind of place where the butter comes with a backstory, and you're glad it does. pierresdhistoire.com
Thanks for being here, bright and (maybe not-so-) early, to read this month’s Breakfast Scrolls, the weekend edit of 🗞️What’s Up, Paris? Until next time, I’m leaving you with the French tune: C’est comme ça by Les Rita Mitsouko 🎶 Bon week-end!
I wish I could've been at that spin class! And can confirm: Lindsey is loyal!