July: Saving summer
Parisians' mood might be at an all-time low thanks to bad weather, Olympic mayhem and political volatility. So the upcoming summer vacation could be the only saving grace right now.
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Saving summer, is all we have right now in France where the extreme right-wing party is seeing a surge in votes following a snap legislative election, determining who becomes Members of Parliament. This isn’t the place for political debate, nor am I a political analyst. But I can share that as we wait for the results of the 7th July round, the general feeling in the French capital is one of doom and gloom as we wait to find out à quelle sauce on va être mangé (meaning, in what way are we going to be eaten). Perhaps the Olympics, kicking off on 26th July, will infuse a little unexpected joy for Parisians? While we wait for vacation time, here are some ways to enjoy the start of summer, regardless. Roxy x
4 things on my radar this July
Party on the rooftop of… an airport. You read right. On 17th July, French Touch music fans will be able to party all night long on the roof of Charles de Gaulle airport’s terminal 1. Headliners include groups Air and Phoenix, as well as DJ and producer Etienne de Crécy. Best of all? It’s totally free. Registration opens Wednesday 3rd July at 11h (Paris time). Check out this post for more details.
What if there was another way? It’s what Virginia transplant Anne Ditmeyer asks in her nifty little manifesto Override, which she’s just self-published in the hope of empowering her readers to slow down enough to remember what matters, to get on their way to reaching their goals while reminding them that it shouldn’t be a race to get there; to savour each moment. I spoke to her this week for (spoiler!) a longer interview in September’s Breakfast Scrolls newsletter as she’s having her book launch this Wednesday 3rd July the at newly opened Messy Nessy’s Cabinet on the Left Bank.
The Japanese flea market is back at La Cité Fertile in Pantin on the outskirts of the city this week (5-7th July), headed up by the famed antiques dealer Koji Fukushima. Whether you’re after a summery kimono, saké cups or kokeshi dolls, this is the place to go. Just get there early because I’ve heard the queue is out of this world.
There’s new life on the horizon for Barbès. For six weeks (until 28th July), the landmark Tati store that used to deal in discounted goods (boulevard Marguerite de Rochechouart) in the 18th arrondissement, will see new light of day after being closed since 2021. It’s not reopening as a store, but as District 23, a pop-up sports hub in partnership with Jordan, the brand. The aim is to bring the locals closer to the global Olympic action with collaborations emphasising the importance of giving young people access to competitions, as well as fostering community interaction through a free, welcoming space for young people. Get all the details by scanning this QR code.
On the menu
Two options to heaven at Café Lux. There isn’t a lot of information about it out there, but trust me, the bobun’s so good that I’ve been craving it since I went a couple of weeks ago. It’s basically a little nook with tables outside that serves two dishes: bobun with meat and without. It’s fresh, it’s tasty, and the noodles are large rolls rather than the usual long and thin noodle. Makes it tastier and easier to eat. As I said, I’m counting the days until I can go back. 73 rue Saint-Maur, Paris 75011 (€)
The flower shop destined for bigger things at La Baignoire. When chef Cécile Levy stumbled upon this pocket-sized space that used to sell flowers on a quiet, less-trodden backstreet of busy Strasbourg St-Denis, she knew this was the home of her own restaurant. After making veggie-focused restaurant Tekes a success with the clan behind top restaurants like Shabour and Boubalé, she flew the nest to cook sunny dishes like silky cuttlefish ribbons with rhubarb and lemongrass, or comforting veal filet with green beans and sumac. Tables have crisp white tablecloths, there are cane-back chairs and dripping candles, that create a chic but laid-back atmosphere. 7 rue Notre Dame de Bonne Nouvelle, Paris 75002 (€€)
Curry with real Indian flavour at New Aqib. With my friend Solène, who lives in Bordeaux, we’ve made it a tradition this last decade to always eat at a different Indian restaurant each time she comes to Paris. Our last spot was New Aquib in Saint-Germain-des-Prés, which I had never been to. When I stepped inside, the aromas of authentically cooked Indian food made me instantly nostalgic for London and for India where I spent a few months a while back. I had to restrain myself from ordering everything on the menu. But what I did order (chicken tikka, dal, rice, chapati, alu gobi) were excellent, maybe the best I’ve had in years in Paris. Definitely worth keeping up your sleeve when in the area. 47 Rue Monsieur le Prince, 75006 Paris (€)
A laid-back bistro near Belleville at L’Orillon. A neighbourhood bistro with vintage vibes (think Formica tables teamed with proper bistro chairs) that’s perfect for lunch with friends close to Belleville. The big windows swing open in summer and the prix fixe lunchtime menu is a steal at 26 euros for three courses. There is also a short wine list of well-chosen natural tipple to wash down the eel starter and sausage, mashed potato served with mustard seeds mains. 35 Rue de l'Orillon, 75011 (€)
Napoleon’s lakeside lodge’s got a slick new look at Châlet des Iles. One of the prettiest locations in town, well, just outside it on a lake of the Boulogne woods, the Châlet des Iles was originally built by Napoleon as a gift for his wife Eugénie in 1857. Since, it’s seen several iterations, including as a restaurant. This year, it was given a sleek decor that reflects the nature around it, and chef Pierre Chomet’s put a fresh Mediterranean-meets-Thailand spin on the menu with starters like the prawn tartare and pad thaï bouillon and mains like crunchy octopus with lashings of hummus that works in perfect harmony. The setting itself is magical and you have to hop on a boat for a couple of minutes to get there, where tables are lined up along the water. Just book ahead as it’s full most days. Bois de Boulogne, Embarcadère du Chalet des Îles Porte de la Muette Ceinture du lac inférieur du, 75016 Paris (€€)
A traditional French institution jazzed up by a Michelin chef at La Poule au Pot. I’d been here years ago, when it was still independent. An old traditional French restaurant with plaques indicating all the celebrities that have eaten here, a proper zinc counter, squeaky leather banquettes, flowery wallpaper… I went back with fellow journalist and friend Lanie who was also curious about how it had evolved when Michelin star chef Jean-François Piège snapped it up. A Parisian landmark it remains, with excellent classics like duck shepherd’s pie that may have been the best I have ever tasted. 9 rue Vauvilliers, Paris 75001 (€€)
Go with the Flo: Taking a step back (or up)
Florence is back this week with her favourite rooftops from which to make the most of summer in Paris.
At a time when the political news is in the doldrums, this month I'd like to invite you to take a step back, or up - both literally and figuratively.
Since Parisians discovered the rooftop bar, which used to be essentially very New York, rooftop terraces have been springing up all over the city.
In 'normal' times, it's a real pleasure to be able to avoid the noise of the traffic and the aggression that goes with it, but in these times, with the approach of the Olympics, it's a blessing. So, what are the hottest rooftop bars? Read on to find out.
The rooftop bar at the La Fantaisie hotel
On the 7th floor of the hotel, the rooftop is designed as a garden where guests sip Californian-inspired cocktails surrounded by a multitude of plants and fruit trees. Our recommendation: order a Pisco Punch made with Mexican Ancho Reyes Verde, Scandinavian Aquavit and parsley and cucumber ice cubes. It’s a change of scenery guaranteed!
The Shed, at Hôtel des Grands Boulevards
Here, we trust the pros. The Experimental Cocktail Group's expertise in cocktails is unquestionable. As for Giovanni Passerini's Italian-singing amuse-bouche, we salivate just thinking about it. A real hideaway for connoisseurs.
Le Toit, at La Bellevilloise
The brand new rooftop of one of our favourite concert venues, was inaugurated for this year's fête de la musique and is already packed to the rafters. Vintage furniture, natural wines and well-crafted cocktails come together to create a relaxed atmosphere. It’s the spot of the moment and comes with a panoramic view over the whole of Paris.
We’ll be taking a break and will be back in September with new spots and surprises. Before we adjourn though, I wanted to give a shout-out to the guys at @Dose de France a newsletter all about French gastronomy, for sending lots of new subscribers our way! Have a wonderful summer and see you soon! 🏖️