Up Go The Terraces, Belleville Micro-Itinerary & Making Choices With Amalthea Founder

What's new in Paris right now, my guide to Belleville, a hotel with soul, foodie weekender and talking choices with the founder of this (truly) clean skincare brand.

Up go the terraces - It’s that time of year again: that of the sacred run of May bank holidays, when there are four bank holidays in four weeks, meaning that everything slows down and the city empties, giving the rest of us some breathing space on newly set-up restaurant terraces and time to spring clean before summer (I’m swapping my wooly jumpers for dresses and manically booking holidays). However, that’s just for show because May is also busy. It’s Cannes Film Festival time, the kick-off of the Roland Garros tennis open, Beer Week, Taste of Paris and lots more. In other words, May’s perfect for doing as much, or as little, as you like.

If You Do Just 3 Things

One of the city’s best art hubs reopens after several years, an unlikely location is hosting electro music DJs, and two spots to book for a taste of this freestyle southern chef’s creative cooking.

This month, most locals might be out of town for the bank holidays, but that isn’t slowing down the Gaîté Lyrique’s reopening momentum. The contemporary “factory,” as it’s calling itself, is reopening its doors with a bang. Don’t miss the party on May 12th where there will be music, drinks and photography exhibition #WomenMatter, a series of portraits highlighting equality and diversity issues. One of my favourite art venues, the atmospheric Bourse de Commerce, the city’s old stock exchange which now brims with works from French business magnate François Pinault’s vast art collection, is hosting electro music gigs on May 11th and 12th under the glass dome, originally built in 1812, and in the surrounding circular galleries, making it a unique experience. Last but not least, wrap your taste buds around the creative cuisine of Damien Teixidor (former headman at Native in Perpignan) who’s cooking at Lolo Cave and at Dame Jane from 22nd May. 

Also On Our Radar: 32 Things To Do In Paris This May

Looking for inspiration for things to do, places to see and restaurants to try? 

Click below for 32 new things to do in Paris that have just opened - or reminders to get there before places close. Enjoy, and happy May! 

Hot Hoods: A Day In Belleville

A cluster of streets lined with Chinese restaurants, well-priced bars, restaurants and artist ateliers, it’s one of Paris’ last bastions of real bohemian cool.

It’s not my neighbourhood but this spot south of the Buttes Chaumont park is one of the few places I could see myself living for the diverse population (it’s known for Chinese restaurants and supermarkets), laid-back, creative bars and restaurants and a gritty atmosphere despite the ongoing gentrification. 

A multi-ethnic, historically working class neighbourhood, it’s home to artists and independent business owners looking for a corner of the capital to set up where rent is still reasonable. Today, it’s a diverse area that’s got plenty to keep you busy - click below for the full guide, map and address book.

Where To Stay: Babel Belleville

A small offbeat hotel with values, and plenty of soul, Babel’s an ode to travelling well.

Surfing the Belleville vibe this month, it makes sense to include one of our favourite places in the neighbourhood to bed down. Launched by Joris Bruneel, behind Rosalie Hotel in the 13th district which we also love, it’s a down-to-earth hotel of 31 rooms with a bar and restaurant. As the name lets on, everything here reflects the culturally mixed area. The hotel is a fusion of influences from North Africa, the Middle East and even has a few biblical references in paintings in some rooms. However, it’s tasteful, warm and welcoming with honest values at heart. The owner keeps a handful of rooms to be used as emergency shelter for locals in need and takes part in a number of community-based initiatives. It’s also a Green Key certified hotel, which Bruneel takes very seriously. In the alluring restaurant or out on the sunny terrace, order dishes that hail from all over the world like stuffed portobello mushrooms with labné, sriracha glazed rice balls or chicken yakitori. They’re open all day long, including for cocktails and brunch at the weekend. babel-belleville.com

Making Choices

Amalthea founder Maryll Beaux tells me how she went from banking to beauty and hasn't looked back since.

Maryll Beaux is a free-spirited, outspoken woman I always want to know more about each time we talk. We first met after I featured her clean skincare brand Amalthea (39 Rue des Gravilliers, 75003 Paris) in a shopping story for Condé Nast Traveller magazine. The section on her brand in the article was very short, so when she told me her story, I wanted to know more. Here are some extracts from our last conversation, which I hope convey how passionate and determined she is about helping others take care of themselves and contributing to changing the face of a very toxic beauty industry - click below to read the interview.

On The Menu

A little corner of Champagne with a farm restaurant to put on your list for a weekend away.

Miles apart from Reims, the capital of Champagne, with its bustling champagne houses packed with crowds come to sip on the region’s golden bubbly tipple, the sleepy village of Gyé-sur-Seine, two hours’ drive from Paris, has its fair share of draws too. It might be incomparably quieter (so quiet in fact that you have to book a tour or tasting at its maisons like Moêt & Chandon and Josselin, well in advance or chances are they’ll be closed) but if you’re in need of downtime, this little spot along the river, with Medieval houses and pre-Roman villages nearby like Châtillon-sur-Seine, does the trick. What brought me here though, is Le Garde Champêtre, a farm with a restaurant in the spot of Gy'é former train station. A revolving chefs’ residency, I had the pleasure of tasting Hugh Corcoran’s cuisine rustled up with seasonal veggies and lamb from a nearby farm. Now, and for the month ahead, Kazuya Miyashita from Japan, will be delighting diners with his hay-infused cooking. The menu (from three-five courses), goes from 28-65 euros without wine - speaking of which, they have a killer selection, so do budget for a glass or two. Two nights in the area is plenty to explore the surroundings and you can rent a room at the Garde Champêtre’s River House, a little abode in the village with cosy interiors (rooms start at 120 euros for two) , a vegetable garden and a stream flowing at the bottom of the garden. You won’t want to leave. legardechampetre.fr 

Merci, gracias, danke, thank you for opening this third instalment of What’s Up, Paris? and taking the time to delve in with me! It’s been a pleasure bringing you dispatches from the frontline. Hope you liked it! If you did, or if you didn’t, or anything in between, let me know! It’s been a pleasure bringing you dispatches from the frontline. Hope you liked it! If you did, or if you didn’t, or anything in between, let me know!

You can also get in touch with general enquiries or questions about collaborations and partnerships: whatsuppariscontact@gmail.com.

See you again next month! Look out for the next instalment coming to you in the first week of June!