December 2023: The Truth, Great Christmas Gifts By Paris Creatives, Oysters & Bubbles
‘Tis the season to be merry... and eat oysters! Bringing you local insider oyster spots, festive things to do, gifts that won't break the bank, and Flo's got the lowdown on French logs.
And that’s the truth. Today, my introduction is a bit longer than usual. I’ve been writing this newsletter for several months, so a huge thank you to everyone who’s been following along! I’m lucky to be able to do what I love (write about travel and culture for various mags and papers), which has taken me to some of the most wonderful places all over Paris and beyond, from exotic islands to triple-star chefs’ kitchens. When Covid struck, all of that came to a halt. I also had a baby, a little girl, and being her maman became my new favourite job. When the world whirred back into action and I went back to exploring, I missed her. I no longer wanted to be living between deadlines and in a constant state of slight stress. But spurred on by my passion for discovery and desire to share my finds with readers, I continued. Three years on and many articles later, I realised I needed to rethink what I’m writing about and how I’m doing it. I’m not sure what that looks like yet, but What’s Up, Paris? is a sort of yellow brick road to finding out… In the meantime, this month, with it being Christmas (which I pretend to hate but actually love because of the extra spark it brings to the city), I’ve checked out some great places to feel the seasonal vibes (or get away from them) and great gifts that won’t break the bank. Wishing you a very merry Christmas and/or a happy end-of-2023! - Roxy
4 things on my radar this month
Sofia Coppola’s in town, where to immerse yourself in the best of the holiday vibes, and a sexy ceramics workshop not to miss.
Meet American filmmaker, screenwriter, and actress Sofia Coppola at her Paris book signing of Sofia Coppola Archive on 18th December at 10am, at OFR bookshop in the Marais. Get there early. 20 Rue Dupetit-Thouars, 75003 Paris
Jump on the festive bandwagon and join the crowds come to admire the wonderful Christmas window displays of paper art at the Printemps department store. It’s definitely not an offbeat thing to do, but if you’re a sucker for Christmas like I am, then you’ll love this. Don’t forget to head inside to see the enormous Christmas tree under the coloured glass dome. 64 Bd Haussmann, 75009 Paris
Hop over to the outskirts of Paris to Château Vaux-Le-Vicomte for a fairytale Christmas experience like no other. The entire chateau is decked out in festive decorations that conjure up all that heart-warming seasonal cheer in a magical setting. 77950 Maincy
Get creative away from the madding crowds on the evening of 8th December (7pm-9pm) at a sexy Karla Sutra ceramics saké cup workshop led by Clara herself, the artist behind the brand, and make your own kinky tableware. Pottery Club Montrouge, 7 Rue Radiguey, 92120 Montrouge
On the menu
As the French will tell you, oysters should only be eaten during the months ending in ‘re’, so in French that’s September to December. Why? Because they’re at their best then.
Sunday, oyster-day. Just opened, Pagaille is the latest of laid-back spots to open on rue Ramey, leading up to Montmartre. Zero-waste focused chef Louis Robergeau, previously at three-star Mirazur, and his team make everything on site, except for the wine, bread and cheese. In fact, when I was there this week, they were boiling an entire pig’s head for terrine. Impressive. They whip up creative crab and black pudding soup, braised leeks with a hazelnut crunch for starters, a tender steamed chicken breast with mushrooms and surprising dishes like reverse vitello tonnato, where raw tuna is doused in meat jus. Don’t miss the chocolate soufflé. And Sundays are all about oysters, bien sûr. 46 Rue Ramey, 75018 Paris
Oyster’s paradise. A place for purists, the Chouchou Hotel, close to Opéra in town, puts on an oyster night every Tuesday in the buzzy guinguette bar where there are often stand-up shows and live music. The best bit? It’s only 1€ per oyster, so you can slurp up guilt free. 11 Rue du Helder, 75009 Paris
Beer and oyster platters. La Trincante is one of my favorite places to go on a Friday night and load up on oysters and prawns I love to dip in their thick mayonnaise. More of a bar, you can also just have a drink. It’s a no-fuss spot with lots of local soul. 23 Rue Eugène Sue, 75018 Paris
Saint-Germain oyster stop. I’m not often in the area, but the Bar à Iode is a great spot to have up your sleeve after a day in the Latin Quarter. Satisfy your oyster cravings with their seafood platters that come at really great prices for the area, that start at 24 euros for six oysters, whelks and prawns. Alternatively, get six oysters for 9 euros and something else from the menu like crab or hearty fish soup. 34 Bd Saint-Germain, 75005 Paris
Market day oysters. Join the locals after their market shop in a quick oyster fix standing up around a wooden barrel, glass of muscadet in hand, at lively local institution Le Baron Rouge close to Aligre Market, a short walk from Bastille. They don’t take bookings and open only from September to April. 1 Rue Théophile Roussel, 75012 Paris
💸 Posh oysters. If you’re looking for a chicer option, there’s no place like La Mascotte in Montmartre. An old brasserie that dates back to the 1800s, it’s kitted out in wooden panels inside and has a display of seafood and oysters out front like the big traditional brasseries like Wepler and Mollard. There are other specialties like fish and chips, lobster and there’s even steak. It’s usually full, especially at weekends, so book ahead of time. 52 Rue des Abbesses, 75018 Paris
Go with the Flo: Paris news from a fellow foodie
Florence has tried all the logs and champagne she possibly can to bring us the crème de la crème of Yule logs and bubbles for a range of budgets (also en français - not an advertorial, in case you’re wondering).
As the festive season fast approaches, I’ve tasted numerous creations (a tough job, I must say), to bring you my selection of delectable logs, or bûche, and champers that truly impress, and that I hope will entice you too. First though, a quick lesson in logs, for those unversed in the matter. Ze bûche, is a festive dessert traditionally shaped like a log to evoke a woodland scene, usually made of rolled sponge cake filled with whipped cream or chocolate ganache, and holds pride of place on French tables at Christmas. But top pastry chefs are shedding the shape and giving the bûche their own interpretation - see their original creations below.
'L’Entre Nous' log - A collaboration between Benoît Castel (Boulangeries Liberté) and designer Tyrsa. A delightful blend of crunchy cereal base, creamy coconut and hazelnut praline, and a moist coconut and hazelnut dacquoise, topped with Madagascar vanilla cream. Price: 6/8 servings for 50€. Available weekends from Dec 2-3, Dec 9-10, and continuously from Dec 13-24, 2023.
Arya log by Pierre Hermé - From the 'Destinations' collection, a pistachio-infused masterpiece featuring sablé pastry, Infiniment Pistache soft biscuit, pistachio praline, and a delicate blend of pistachio cream and orange blossom light cream. Price: 12 servings for 130€. Available in all stores. I recommend you pre-order.
Ritz Anniversary log by François Perret - Celebrating Ritz Paris's 125th anniversary, an exceptional limited edition masterpiece with vanilla almond praline, Madagascar vanilla ganache, and chocolate mousse, concealed under a golden glaze adorned with finely crafted chocolate rays. Price: 8 servings for 150€. Pre-order starting Nov 27, 2023, on ritzparislecomptoir.com.
Bubbles:
Signature Brut B016 by Champagne Jacquart - A gastronomic delight combining chardonnay's aromatic freshness with extended aging for a silky texture and fine bubbles. Price: 34€ for a 75cl bottle.
Ruinart Blanc Singulier - A unique expression of chardonnay reflecting climate variations, an unoaked Blanc de Blancs showcasing Ruinart's distinct aromatic freshness. Price: 110€ TTC.
Krug Grande Cuvée 171st Edition - An immersive tasting experience with a limited edition box, featuring a QR code for a unique musical tasting experience. Price: 270€.
Happy Holidays!
Gift inspo from top Paris creatives for under €30
Great gifts made by some of my favourite creatives in the city (NB: This isn’t an advertorial - just great things that are on my Christmas list).
€12,89 - Making a dream come true - at least for some francophiles, because creating a cooking school was never Jane’s intention or what brought her to Paris. A former banker, she needed to switch things up and one drunken night, the idea dawned on her. That was over a decade ago. Today, La Cuisine is a huge success story, its croissant- and macaroon-making classes booked months in advance. Wanting to share her story (and help others avoid the mistakes she made), she’s written The French Ingredient: Making a Life in Paris One Lesson at a Time; A Memoir. The release date is slated for April but you can pre-order now, so this present demands a little patience, but I’ve read a final draft: it’s worth the wait.
€28,00 - Skincare that loves you and the planet. Amalthea, a natural French beauty brand with a space in Paris 3, has some great finds for Christmas. I love this brand, created by Maryll Beaux, who answered my questions in a previous edit of What’s Up, Paris? In the run-up to Christmas, she’s launched a Paris-themed range with packaging designed by illustrator Jean-Michel Regard. The essential I personally use daily in winter is her hydrating prune or camelina oil - the skin drinks it right in and feels great after.
€14,99 - A lesson in Parisian culture. Eight years in Paris and three children later have given this high-energy Australian expat more than a glimpse of the local culture. She shares her day to day with us in a newsletter every week, but has kept some of the most insightful bits for her beautiful new book for kids. Created with illustrator Sara Vesperini, The Parisian ABCs is sure to get a few laughs from adults too. For instance, what do you think ‘G’ stands for in Paris? I’ll give you one guess.
€29,00 - Sexy ceramics to spice up your Christmas. I met Clara (the artist’s real name) last summer and sat down with her for a What’s Up, Paris? interview. I’m a huge fan of her simple, cheeky designs that bring back the need for eroticism in a world dominated by pornography. Switch up your tableware with a few pieces from her brand Karla Sutra and give that special person a hint or two over your favourite winter soup or a slice of buttery toast without having to say a word.
€30,00 - Wear your favourite restaurant brand. Paris restaurant merch is hot right now, whether it’s a Café de Flore bowl or a t-shirt stamped with the name of your favourite natual wine bar, The Gift Shop Club (est. 2023), is getting them out there. Buy that Parisian food scene fan in your life a Brasserie Lipp espresso set, Double Dragon bandana or Verre Volé t-shirt for the ultimate memento.
💸 If you have a little more cash to splash:
Custom-made maps of your special place. While we only met in real life recently, Sonja Bajic and I have known each other for years, working on projects remotely. Meeting her was a highlight of my 2023. She’s fun, bubbly, generous, intelligent and super creative. An expat from ex-Yugoslavia, there is no ends to this map-maker’s talents. She can draw maps of anywhere that you hold close to your heart, with all the monuments you choose. Want to know more about her? She also has a regular newsletter about her Paris finds and travels.
That’s it for this month’s newsletter - a big merci for reading along! Wishing you a great end-of-2023 and see you in the new year!