Any plans this month?

Here’s to harnessing those buzzy back-to-work vibes and diving right into what's new in Paris this season, from creative chefs opening their own digs to art shows to check out.

‘What’s Up, Paris?’ is a twice-monthly newsletter for Parisians and visitors eager to experience the city through the lens of local creatives. A heartfelt thank you for subscribing!

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We’re on the cusp of autumn, or ‘fall’ as our American friends say, and the end of the Paralympics is pulling into sight. Temperatures are still soaring, but summer’s nevertheless over. After weeks of Provincial quiet, the city is abuzz again. Parisians are back in town. Bars are full and trains are jam-packed. It’s la rentrée (that time of year when the French head back to work after summer vacation). Like any respectable local, I too complain about the rentrée, but actually, I’m thrilled about the city whirring back into action. I made the mistake of being back in town too early, you see. Had I been in a Western, you would probably have heard tumbleweed roll by quite regularly last month. Even exhibitions were slim on the ground. In Paris. I kid you not. So, after August’s ghostly lull, I’m looking forward to diving into the fresh new promise this upcoming season holds. I’ve rounded up openings on my radar below, and some of my fellow Paris writers also shared what’s getting their rentrée on the rails. So, without further ado: happy rentrée! Roxy

Les Traversées du Marais festival, a foodie pop-up at Double, activist Angela Davis will be at the Fête de L’Humanité.

4 things on my radar this September

With summer behind us, the pace of life is picking up and the city is fizzing with openings. Here are some things on my list - check out the full SEPTEMBER CALENDAR too.

Dip into your independent film festival spirit at Festival Silhouette (30th Aug until 7th Sept). At this 23rd edition of the annual event there are screenings (some open-air) of an eclectic range of films, as well as concerts that take place in the Butte du Chapeau Rouge, Paris 19 🎬

Celebrate life on a French army base at the Fête de l’Humanité (13-15th September), a music festival that’s an ode to diversity and togetherness, created in 1930 by left-wing French weekly newspaper L’Humanité. As well as performers Angelique Kidjo, Jeff Mills and MC Solaar, the iconic social justice activist Angela Davis will be there on the 14th at 1pm for a session of debates ✊

Somewhere between Turkey and South Korea with Esu Lee’s latest pop-up at the sexy, candle-lit Double, which you might have read about in last March’s newsletter when it opened. From 4-7th September, he’ll be joined by Turkish London-based chef Sertaç Dirik. They’ll rustle up a seven-course menu blending their Turkish and Korean cuisines🔥 (€75 per person, 7:00pm or 9:30pm).

Dip into the 70s at Super Huit, a laid-back joint that’s about to shake up Paris 8th. Think retro interiors, a monthly rotating bistronomic menu, and a natural wine list, the restaurant is headed up by co-founder Giulian Maiuri and chef Robert Sloan, formerly of Mieux, Super Huit’s big sister.

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WHY IT’S GOOD TO BE BACK - according to locals in the know

It’s officially back to work for Parisians, but what’s on the to-do lists of writers, journalists and content creators who know the city like the back of their hand?

Journalist, author, podcast host and long-time Paris local, Lindsey Tramuta also writes the newsletter The New Paris Dispatch.

📌Le Petit Keller’s permanent takeover: “After his excellent summer taco pop-up, Emmanuel Pẽna (whom we all know and love from his years at El Nopal) is sticking around at Le Petit Keller: he’s taking over the space permanently and opening a Mexican neo-bistro. I can’t wait for more of his cooking!”