March: Are we there yet?
Paris in March is jam-packed with events and openings, from pop-ups to restaurants tucked in offbeat corners of the city, to keep us going until we get to spring.
‘What’s Up, Paris?’ is a twice-monthly newsletter for Paris locals and visitors who want to explore the city through the eyes of independent creatives. If you enjoy following along, share it with like-minded friends. A super-huge thank you for being a subscriber. I appreciate you being here!
Are we there yet? Another fashion week takes hold of the city, which is slowly getting into gear for the Olympics, albeit reticently, with most locals planning on fleeing the city. Even the transport minister said it would be “hardcore.” The transport system is already taking a slight hit with building work causing delays and closures on some lines. To add to the locals’ discontentment, the sun is making itself exceptionally scarce, forcing vitamin-D starved Parisians to painfully peel themselves from their beds for more dreary days of hollow white skies and cold drizzle. Paris is waiting for better weather. For sunlight. For time on terraces and park picnics. For spring. We’re almost there. Roxy x
4 things on my radar this March
When it comes to things to see and do, Paris just keeps on giving. Here are things I hope to get around to doing this month.
Pick up some hot pantry essentials. This season, Le Bon Marché department store hosts “Mise en page,” a book-themed pop-up curated by Sarah Andelman, behind the success of the Colette concept store (now closed) and the founder of Just an idea, and the artist Jean Jullien. As part of the project, the duo’s invited Korean brand Nounou Official and the creative food agency Phamily First to create a café: Nounou First. Until 21st April, you can have a browse of apparel and shop artisanal kitchen cupboard essentials with packaging by Jullien.
Take a peek at Europe’s biggest upcoming art district. Part of the Fiminco Foundation on the city outskirts in Romainville, FAST is an eclectic ecosystem of prominent art galleries, international artist residencies and studios. It’s now being expanded to reach 50,000 m2 by the end of 2024 and will encompass performing arts, featuring the Grand Cuvier auditorium and a short-stay residence with 146 rooms. It’s currently open to visitors for the ART Situacions III group show (until 7th April), highlighting the convergence of Spanish and French contemporary artists questioning the utilisation of new technologies.
Dance the night away in an old chapel. Parisian techno music collective RAW will open its own club inside a former church in Paris. While the exact location remains undisclosed, the club is set to open its doors on March 16th (11pm-8am) with a capacity of 500. The lineup features techno luminaries like Ben Sims, Freddy K, UVB, and VRIL, alongside residencies from RAW regulars A.mo, ey-rah, Illnurse, and Kuss. Described by the collective as more than just a club, HAVEN is envisioned as a musical sanctuary, a haven for free and passionate spirits celebrating authenticity and genuine human connection.
Get a taste for excellence. M, the magazine of French national newspaper Le Monde, is launching its very own festival, focusing on the notion of ‘second lease of life’ across the realms of culture, fashion, design, and gastronomy. A two-day event (23rd and 24th March), Le Goût de M will take over the atmospheric and prestigious Duperré Art School in the Marais. Tickets go on sale today.
What else is happening in Paris in March?
If you want more experiences and openings in town, then check out the calendar below, which I’m constantly updating with new finds (bear with me, there’s content in the link below but I’m still working on it..!)
On the menu
Places to book for lunch or dinner, for a heart-to-heart or just a quickie, here are a few places I loved last month.
Just what you want at Brion. After working in kitchens in New York and London, Geoffrey Lengagne has opened a new chapter with his own digs where he’s rustling up fresh French fare like cod raviolo with Basque octopus, and marinated and grilled trout, black garlic lemon pil pil sauce, and marinated cabbage, that are to die for. The space is light and bright, with waxed cement floors, an open kitchen and soothing cream and algae-green tones. And the staff is an exceptional bunch of friendly faces. Brion, simply brilliant. 17 rue Lamartine, Paris 75009
Seeing Double. David Israël (Dizen) and Tsuyoshi Yamakawa (Saturne, Verre Volé…) are a winning duo at this teeny tiny pocket serving Italian pasta dishes with Japanese accents close to Montmartre. Think candlelit micro-restaurant with moody Tokyo-downtown izakaya vibes with just 12 seats. Open in the evenings, tuck into dishes like the fresh handmade burbot fish chitarra noodles with yuzukosho, shitake mushrooms and ponzu butter; at lunchtime it’s all about the takeaway onigiris. 87 rue Lamarck, Paris 75018
Chocolate Kiss(es) you won’t forget. It’s what the owner said when he handed me a box of what might actually be the best chocolate dessert I’ve ever had. These soft little disks were the most perfect combination of chocolate cookies and brownies, handed to me over the counter at Kiss, a new takeaway spot from the clan behind local favourite, Echo (also known for bringing the smash burger to Paris). There are salads too, and a Da Chicken Bomb burger I’d definitely go back for. 55 rue du Faubourg Poissonnière, Paris 75009
Hunkering down for elevated French food at Bistrot Flaubert. Part of restaurant magnate Stéphane Manigold’s growing empire, this is a quiet little spot with chic French deli vibes, that’s a pleasant break from the city bustle despite being just a 15-minute walk to the Arc de Triomphe. The chef changes regularly, but the food is always on point, a cross between traditional French flavours and Mediterranean or Korean flair, dependinf on the chef! 10 rue Gustave Flaubert, Paris 75017
Gluten-free goodness at Chez Ann. Bao, dim sum and noodle soups, most of which are gluten-free, are lovingly made by a group of upbeat women in the open kitchen in their two laid back spots. And the locals of the area know they’re onto a good thing because it’s packed out every lunchtime. Don’t forget to ask for the dessert menu to see some of the owner’s grandchildren’s drawing of frozen mochis and sweet baos, which are delicious. 9 rue de Paradis, Paris 75009 (or 29 rue de L’Echiquier, Paris 75010)
A new food hub on the city outskirts at Communale. What used to be a no-man’s land on the northern outskirts of the city is now a dynamic neighbourhood dubbed ‘Les Docks’ with heaps of housing and new places to eat like Communale. A covered hub with a food market, café, bar and food stalls from Taiwanese to Moroccan, there will be boutiques and events too. If you’re in the area, make sure to drop by, especially if you have children, who have lots of room to run around. 10 bis rue de l’hippodrome, 93400 Saint-Ouen-sur-Seine
Taking requests… 🙋♀️✨
Friends, family, followers! You’ve asked and asked again: when are we going to share a proper guide of places to eat in each Paris neighbourhood?
Well, you’ll be happy to know that the guide to where to eat in Paris by arrondissement with some great eats for all budgets, is here! Well, almost. I’m still putting the finishing touches to it, but it is on its way! And there are more guides to come… ⬇️
Thank you again for being here! See you again for Breakfast Scrolls, out the weekend of the 16th March! 🥐 A bientôt!
Love.