May: Is anyone here?

Look away if you're a Paris local making the most of the May bank holidays, and if you're knocking about town like me, I've rounded up some goodies for making the most of the (quieter) city.

May 04, 2024

Welcome to this monthly edit of my What’s Up, Paris? newsletter. Thank you for being here!

If you're a Paris local, then you might be ignoring this little edit - and with good reason! You’re probably making the most of the May bank holiday bonanza away from the city (I kid you not; there are four days), to do a digital detox, read proper books printed on paper, drink freshly brewed coffee, go on walks and breathe fresh air coming off the sea or fields that stretch on as far as the eye can see. Me, I’m still in Paris soaking up the toxins and beating away at my keyboard. May is about clearing my plate so the summer can be a long and tranquil one - also one where I can finally focus on rekindling the @whatsup.paris Instagram account I’ve pitifully left dormant for months. Also important life decisions have been made, freeing up a big chunk of headspace. I’m celebrating with exhibitions without the crowds (thank you May!) and fab food. Who’s with me? - Roxy x

4 things on my radar this May

With all the bank holidays in Paris this month, the city’s ticking to a quieter pace. If, like me, you’re here, then here are some things I want to get to doing that you might enjoy too.

Go artist-studio hopping in Belleville, one of my favourite areas (scroll down for a Belleville micro-itinerary guide), where more than 150 workshops will open their doors to curious visitors wanting to bask in the area’s independent arty spirit. There’s a handy map to help you get around (at least until you’ve had a few drinks). Ateliers d’Artistes de Belleville, 23-26th May (2-8pm).

Get digging for records at @parislovesvinyl’s next mammoth sale: That’s 50,000 records spanning all musical genres at less than 10€ each. A record ‘clinic’ will also be on hand to help clean up your oldest LPs. Bastille Design Centre, 19th May (10am-6pm), 6.50€

Dance at the Monnaie de Paris’ Back to the 80s party right in the heart of Paris. Making the most of the venue’s latest exhibition about iconic arcade games like pinball machines, as well as jukeboxes, video game terminals from the 60s to the 90s, there will be DJ sets and live performances. The night ends at 11.30pm, so it’s perfect for night owls who like to get the metro home (and their beauty sleep). Monnaie de Paris, 15th May, 22.20€

Get under the surface of urban art, from the streets to digital. Having been a big street art fan, today I think it has sort of seen its day as a subculture in Paris, and has gone mainstream, but the genre does have a lot to say about society - where it was and where it’s at, and I want to refresh my memory. Grand Palais Immersif, until 21st July.

Go with the Flo: 4 chefs to (re)discover right now

Florence is back with some of her favourite chefs, who are making waves in Paris (in French).

Let's start with the chef who is the darling of foodie-fashionistas (yes, that's a category of its own here): Pierre Touitou, at his latest restaurant 19 ST ROCH. The son of the founder of the A.P.C. brand, he first shook things up at restaurants Vivant and then Déviant, and he’s back with a bang at his first very own address. Pretty plates, Japanese inspiration, an open kitchen and laid-back vibes... You’ll just have to wait weeks to nab a table.

In other ‘let's arm ourselves with patience’ news, it's super hard to get a reservation at Minore, but that just goes to show the level of excitement on the Parisian scene. For here we welcome back Katsuaki Okiyama, the cult chef from Abri (now closed), who has a fan club worthy of a rock star. Together with a talented mixologist, this spot on avenue Trudaine is undoubtedly the terrace to book this spring.

Eloi Spinnler is a star of both social networks and the kitchen, and a visit to his restaurant Orgueil is a must if you really want to get to grips with the zeitgeist and what makes a good restaurant in Paris these days. Bistro or gastro, you'll be won over by his personality and cuisine, just as the food experts at Gault&Millau were when they awarded him the Trophée du Jeune Talent 2024 for the Île de France region.

In the punk and committed chef genre, Bérangère Fagart at Sélune jumps to mind. This self-taught chef from Granville (Normandy), who was spotted in season 14 of French Top Chef, whips up a delicious, eco-responsible cuisine that allows for all kinds of flavour combinations, with top-notch results. Watch this space.

Florence Valencourt

Micro-itinerary: Belleville beauties🚶🏽‍♀️

Belleville’s many facets make it a favourite neighbourhood for its Chinese noodle bars, street art, indie bars and restaurants, and artist ateliers opening their doors to the public this month.

The area fans out from main artery rue de Belleville, which is lined with Chinese restaurants like Mian Guan where they stretch and beat their own noodles, as well as local favourite Thai spot Lao Siam and bars like the neon-lit Culture Rapide which has a big leafy terrace and slam nights (don’t forget to look up while on the terrace for artist Ben’s in situ work that reads ‘Beware of words') and Aux Folies which do cheap pints, or Combat and Kissproof for proper cocktails. Off the main road, on rue Julien Lacroix is Paloma, which does a three-course lunch menu for an unbeatable 16€. Stop at the Nordic Bokbar across the street for a coffee and cake or Floréal, close to Belleville park and its waves of lawn. Modern bistros Le Baratin and Le Grand Bain are also worth checking out. Make sure to pop into revolving chefs’ residency Dame Jane for dinner too. As far as places to stay go, there’s the beautiful Babel and hostel People of Belleville.

👇I’ve added the above and more on a handy map👇, hopefully making it easier to explore! (Got any recs of your own? Let me know! whatsuppariscontact@gmail.com)

Belleville Guide

That’s it for now. A big merci for reading May’s edit of What’s Up, Paris? See you on the 18th May for the mid-month weekend instalment of Breakfast Scrolls!