February: On the way out.
Hot openings and old favorites, win a special gift from an eco-conscious French skincare brand, and Flo's back with the lowdown on some fancy chocolates.
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On the way out. The most depressing day of the year (Blue Monday) has been and gone. It’s now daylight past 4pm. Galette season is wrapping up, Chandeleur (Candlemas, aka when everyone here seeks out the best crêpes) is getting into gear. The city’s come out of Fashion Week and taking a breather before Valentine’s Day visitors descend upon it. Winter’s officially on the way out and an underlying vitality is building under the remaining greyness, waiting to break through next month when cherry blossom will flood our social media accounts. In the meantime, here’s how to stay busy in Paris this month - hope you enjoy this edit! Roxy x
6 things on my radar this February
When it comes to things to see and do, Paris just keeps on giving. Here are things I hope to get around to doing this month.
Head beneath the city under La Défense business district with Les Exatiques, and explore the maze of hidden tunnels where art collective Interstices has set up a group show of monumental art works in a setting coined as the ‘sunken cathedral’ (La Cathédral Engloutie), from 2-18 February. Book online.
Feel the beat at Paris’ newest club FVTVR, which welcomes Carl Craig, Detroit techno heavyweight and founder of the label Planet E. He’ll be hosting a series of figures from underground club culture, like drum and bass legend Roni Size, the master producer of New York dance music, Joe Claussell, as well as Moodymann and Kevin Saunderson, for a finale celebrating house and deep-house from across the Atlantic. Electronic music fans, we’re in for a treat. Cité de la mode et du design - 34 quai d'Austerlitz, 75013 Paris
Be transported to realms where ancient legends come to life on Sunday 18th during the grand défilé, the city’s most spectacular Lunar New Year parade of swirling dragons, symbol of 2024. Check out the full program of festivities, including exhibitions, concerts and film festivals, running from 8-25 February (French only). And don’t forget to make time for a meal at one of the neighbourhood’s fantastic restaurants or canteens like New Hoa Khoan, my personal favorite. From 2.30-5pm, 44 Avenue d’Ivry.
Challenge the status quo at "Ghost and Spirit," showcasing the influential work of Mike Kelley, a pivotal American artist of the 20th/21st centuries. From his early performances to iconic sculptures challenging societal norms, the exhibition, organised with the Tate Modern, London, explores themes like memory, gender, and societal structures. It traces the chronological evolution of Kelley's work, including the renowned Kandors, and highlights his enduring influence on contemporary artistic dialogues. Bourse de Commerce - 2 rue de Viarmes, Paris 75001. Until 19 February.
Step into En Amour, a playground of live performances and visual art running from 9 February until 25 August. A cross between a collective hangout and a personal journey, where you get to groove with strangers at an impromptu dance party. Musician Laurent Bardainne’s cooked up a fresh sound experience, mixing soulful pop, electronic beats, and the smooth vocals of November Ultra – all seamlessly intertwined with captivating visuals. Now there’s something to kickstart your month. “En Amour,” Paris Philharmonic - 221, avenue Jean Jaurès, Paris 75019
Push open the door of Halo, which after getting a sneak peak and writing about it for Forbes US back in September, has finally opened its doors. I have yet to go back to see the finished result but from what I’ve seen so far, it doesn’t disappoint. Pop through the fitting rooms of the shiny new concept store for creative collabs, and you land in Victor Blanchet’s dimly lit restaurant where he whips up seasonal dishes focused on fish and vegetables. Can’t wait. Halo - 12 rue Saint-Sauveur, Paris 75002
What else is happening in Paris in February?
If you want more experiences and openings in town, then check out the calendar below, which I’m constantly updating with new finds.
On the menu
Places I’ve loved this month and that have taken me from Paris to the Middle East, the Philippines to NYC’s Little Italy.
Filipino flavours fit for queens at Reyna
When Erica Paredes opened her little nook in an out-of-the-way area of the 11th arrondissement, she didn’t do things by halves. Dishes like her signature crispy chicken and silky squid noodles earned her a serious following, including praise and distinction as one of the best restaurants in town from food authority Le Fooding. I am ashamed to say that I only got round to trying the chef’s food last month and it’s not hard to see why there was a two-week wait to book a table. The small space is pretty low-key in terms of decor but dishes pack a punch and were different to anything I had tasted before and yet comforting. The trek across town is totally worth it just to tuck into those squid noodles.
Comfort food straight outta NYC at Vecchio
Whether you want to have an intimate dinner or a pumping party, Vecchio is the place to be. Up inside the Perchoir, a favorite spot in summer for the beautiful bohemian rooftop terrace seven flights up, duo Hubert Niveleau and Gianmarco Gorni have taken over the industrial loft-like restaurant space. They’re serving up cheesy arancino, bucatini al limone with botargo and marinara sauce mealtballs, just like those you’d find in a hole-in-the-wall joint of Little Italy, alongside good vibes and some old-school tunes. The only regret? The guys’ residency here ends in April. Looking forward to seeing what’s on the cards next.
Stepping back in time at Brasserie Lipp
An old brasseie in Saint-Germain is pretty cliché by some people’s standards today, but my motto is: if ain’t broke, don’t fix it. And while Lipp might be an old timer, it is far from broken. On the contrary, it’s packed on most days at lunch and dinner with a mix of locals and visitors who come to tuck into some must-try French classics. The buttery sole meunière and fluffy mash potatoes are signatures. I also love the Art Nouveau wood panelled interiors - they get me every time. If you missed it in December’s newsletter, you can now also buy all sorts of Lipp wares and apparel at The GiftShop - perfect for die-hard brasserie fans.
Taking a dip in the Middle East at Kapara
This space owes its success to its first form as the festive Balagan restaurant, a collaboration between two of the hottest hospitality groups in Paris: Experimental Group and JLM (Shabour, Shana, Boubalé). After deciding to go their separate ways, it was rolled into JLM’s portfolio and reopened as Kapara. The Hebrew word for a person dear to you, it’s a little tamer than the original place, at least in the week, but that’s not a bad thing for diners who want a quieter affair. Food is fresh (those French sourced cherry tomatoes!), full-flavoured and feels foreign enough to be exotic despite the recent boom of Israeli food joints in Paris. Don’t miss the fatoush and fish and chickpea dish, and the maison’s pink sparkling wine that tastes like liquid sunshine.
Offbeat wanderings at L’Entrepot
This glass roofed restaurant was somewhere I loved to go years ago and I am relieved to say it still is, despite an extensive renovation. In a backstreet of the offbeat Pernety neighbourhood behind Montparnasse - which I talk about in my mid-month weekend newsletter Breakfast Scrolls out on Saturday 17th Feb which you get as a What’s Up, Paris? subscriber - it also had a cinema and a concert venue, and tacked on the back is a leafy patio for summer days. Dishes range from French staples like steak tartare to fresh fish and crunchy three-colour broccoli. Make room for dessert like the chef’s tarte tatin. At lunchtime, there’s a three-course menu for 27 euros and staff won’t bat an eyelid at rowdy children and instead will smile, say how cute they are and bring them pens and paper - definitely earns them some brownie points!
Go with the Flo: The sweet stuff
Florence has been out and about again. After feasting on galette last month, this time she’s bringing you her favorite chocolates.
Alright, brace yourself for some real talk — I might not be winning any popularity contests in the industry by saying this, but for the love of cocoa, ditch the restaurant on February 14th! Even though Paris is the ultimate romantic city, and even if the thought of a candlelit dinner with your significant other puts a twinkle in your eye. I often wonder about what enjoyment one gets out of being surrounded by loved-up couples squeezed into tables for two, tucking into overpriced dishes?
I say stay home that night or catch a show, but steer clear of the tourist trap Valentine’s Day menu. Even the chefs aren't so thrilled about it all, and that says something…
That being said, no need to be a buzzkill. Make it special. Go for some top-notch chocolate crafted by an artisan. My go-to this year? Alain Ducasse’s chocolates. Head to his brand spanking new Parisian workshop in Paris 20th and dig into the season's sensation: "Les Pépicœurs Passion-Coco." Triple texture, featuring coconut praline for the dark version and vanilla-hazelnut praline for the milk one, paired with passion fruit, caramel and marshmallow. It’s love at first bite. Alain Ducasse Chocolate Pépicœurs Passion-Coco 12 pieces, €32 / 24 pieces: €44.
🍀 Giveaway: This week, win eco-conscious bodycare products from clean French skincare brand Amalthea
Ever since I discovered Maryll Beaux’ organic products and interviewed her for What’s Up, Paris?, I’ve been obsessed. I have her nourishing Amalthea face oils and shampoo, which have become part of my routine. This month, Maryll will send a lucky reader a set of luxurious body cream and shampoo (jealous!).
Head over to this Instagram post for a chance to win - you have until Friday 9th February 6pm CET to enter! Bonne chance!
Thank you again for being here! See you again for Breakfast Scrolls, out the weekend of the 16th February!